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Tournament Casting 

and the Proper 

Equipment 

By 
LOU S. DARLING 



'He laughs best who laughs last" 



Price Postpaid, $1.00 



PUBLISHED BY 

J. CLIFF BLANCHARD 

268 CANAL STREET, NEW YORK 



'^) 



rUSriARYofOONfiRESS 
Two Copies Heceived 
. MAh U 190? 

-^Copyrlfirht Entry . 
CLASS /\ XXC, No. 






Copyright 1907 
By Lou S. Darling 



Press of The- Is-aaV H. Blanchard Co. 
New York 



CONTENTS 

TOURNAMENT CASTING AND Page 

THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 5 

EASTERN RULES . ; 9 

CASTING WITH FLY ROD 31 

BAIT CASTING FROM THE REEL 55 

BAIT CASTING FOR ACCURACY 76 

BAIT CASTING WITH SLACK LINE 80 

"SWITCH" OR ROLL CASTING 85 

FLY CASTING FOR ACCURACY 90 

"OBSTACLE" FLY CASTING 94 

SELECTION aF THE EQUIPMENT 97 



Tournament Casting and the 
Proper Equipment 

WITHIN the past few years I have received so 
many inquiries from friends, patrons and cor- 
respondents for instruction on tourna- 
ment casting and advice as to the proper equip- 
ment, that it has led me to put forth this modest Httle 
book upon an unsuspecting pubHc. 

I have conscientiously tried to treat the various sub- 
jects herein in a lucid way without going into minute and 
confusing detail. 

To those who differ with me I can only say in self- 
defense that each point I claim as proven, I have, at 
least, worked out to my own satisfaction. To those who 
agree with me (God send there by many!) I can only 
add — "more power to your elbow" and may you win 
many records ! 

In this work I propose to treat only the various styles 
of casting as are generally in vogue at the representative 
tournaments throughout the country. It is impossible, 



6 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

in some cases, to make conditions, rules, etc., uniform, 
as the general reg^ulations of the different tournament 
committees of the several casting- clubs vary consider- 
ably in style of events, length and weight of rods, time 
of casting, size and distances of targets, methods of 
scoring, flies and lures used, etc. This is, of course, 
greatly to be regretted, for it works great injury to the 
sport, makes comparisons of different performances often 
impossible, and leaves the way open for much "claiming" 
of records. There has lately been formed, however, a 
National Association of Scientific Angling Clubs, com- 
posed of the following representative clubs : The Chicago 
Fly Casting Club, The Fox River Valley Bait Casting 
Club, The Grand Rapids Fly Casting Club, The Illinois 
Bait Casting Club, The Kalamazoo Bait and Fly Cast- 
ing Club, The Kansas City Bait and Fly Casting Club, 
The Racine Fly Casting Club, The San Francisco Fly 
Casting Club and the Angler's Club of New York. 

The objects of this association are "to perfect univer- 
sal rules under which to conduct national or interna- 
tional tournaments, to promote interest in scientific an- 
gling through tournament or contest casting, to guard 
against any evils of professionalism that may possibly 
arise, to assist in the propagation and protection of game 
fishes, and influence legislation toward this end, to pro- 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 7 

mote the appreciation of true amateur six>rtsmanship 
among- anglers and lend moral support to all moves 
toward true sportsmanship in all sports, and to promote 
such social conditions as an incident to the sport of 
angling." For the benefit of those desiring a wider 
knowledge concerning the above association I give here 
the name and address of the Secretary — H. E. Rice, 225 
South Peoria Street, Chicago. 

From this excerpt of the association's propaganda it 
will be seen that at last a powerful and combined efifort 
will be made to draft a complete set of uniform rules 
and regulations, governing all tournament contests, 
which will relegate to the scrap-heap all questionable 
records and confusing rules. Unfortunately (for my- 
self), I happen to be a member of the despised and 
"downtrod" professional class, and this bars me from 
membership in our local club, except as an associate 
member, who cannot vote and has no voice in the club's 
meetings. Under the present ruling of the Angler's 
Club of New York, a "professional" is anyone who is 
or has been a guide — who teaches or has taught casting 
for pay — who is or has been engaged in the manufacture 
or sale of fishing tackle. It is the last clause that 
"stings" me and, for the life of me, I cannot see why. 
To my benighted mind it seems that anyone who gives 



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TOURNAMENT CASTING 



their constant best thought, study and labor to the pro- 
'^ duction and improvement of the magnificent rods, reels, 

^ lines etc., which this sport demands — to say nothing of 

/^ furthering the game in every way possible — would be 

more fairly treated if presented with an honorary mem- 
bership, rather than branded * 'professional" and thrown 
"without the breastworks." However, "they also serve 
who only stand and wait," and my greatest and only 
real regret is that I cannot help along the good cause by 
actively working for the long needed, long hoped-for 
uniform rules. 

Let us hope that wise counsel will prevail and that 
another season will see all clubs competing under like 
conditions, similar events and identical rules — then will 
the game be fairly started and become, as it should be, 
the most truly perfect and gentlemanly sport of our 
day. I give here for information and comparison, the 
rules governing tournament contests as generally in use 
by the Angler's Club of New York and at the indoor 
tournament held annually (except 1906), at Madison 
Square Garden, New York, during the Sportsman's 
Show, and which I will call "Eastern Rules." 



^^ 



PLATE I 




Fly Castmv; 
Beginning of the Recovery 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 9 

EASTERN RULES 

GENERAL RULES GOVERNING ALL CONTESTS 

In all events there shall be a First Prize, Gold Medal; Second Prize, 
Silver Medal; and Third Prize, Bronze Medal. 

Rule i. All contests shall be governed by two Judges and a Referee. 
In cases of disagreement, the Referee shall decide. 

Rule 2. All persons competing shall pay an entrance fee of $1.00 
for each event. 

Rule 3. The order in which the contestants shall cast shall be de- 
termined by lot. The contestants must be ready to cast when called 
upon by the Judges. 

Rule 4. Entries may be made any time before the beginning of a 
contest, but if made after lots have been drawn for place, such entrants 
must take precedence, except with consent of all contestants. Places 
cannot be exchanged without the consent of all contestants. 

Rule 5. The leader and fly or lure in each contest must be intact 
at the time of record by the Judges, and the length and weight ot 
the rod must be recorded. 

Rule 6. After the contestant has taken his place on the stand, which 
is a platform not more than eighteen inches above the surface of the 
water, his time shall be counted from the moment he says "ready," and 
the first cast thereafter shall count. The longest cast during the five 
minutes succeeding the word "ready," shall be taken as his record for 
distance. 

Rule 7. The rod must be held in one hand, and no rod shall ex- 
ceed eleven and one-half (iiH) feet in length, excepting when other- 
wise specified. The line must not be weighted. 

Rule 8. The barb and point must be removed from all hooks. 

Rule 9. Trout flies on hooks no smaller than No. 12, old scale, 
shall be used, unless otherwise specified. Leaders, which must be of 
single gut, shall not exceed the length of the rod by more than two 
feet, unless otherwise specified. 

Rule 10. Tim& will be allowed, in case of accident, to make repairs, 
at the discretion of the Judges. 



10 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

Rule ii. The switch style of casting will not be allowed except in 
the class so devoted to that method. 

Rule 12. All difficulties or disputes, arising and not provided for 
in these rules or the rules governing each contest, shall be referred 
to the Judges and Referee, whose decision shall be final. 

Rule 13. When the method of casting to be employed is specified in 
the rules governing an event, no other style than that designated will 
be allowed. 

Rule 14. In all events where the weight of the rod is limited, an 
allowance of three-quarters of an ounce shall be made for the solid 
metal reel seat, and three-quarters of an ounce for an independent 
handle, providing such handle and butt joint of the rod are each made 
with the usual metal ferrule, and the rod, exclusive of the handle, is 
made in three pieces joined by metal ferrules. 

Rule 15. In bait casting, when a contestant shall inadvertently cast 
while a click is in, the cast shall not be scored or counted. Another 
cast shall be allowed for same. 

Also, when the lure is snapped off in the very act of casting, but not 
after it has started forward, the cast shall not be scored or counted, 
and another cast allowed. 

Rule 16. The standard for hooks is that of Harrison's Sproat, reg- 
ular size, old scale. 

The following are the rules as generally adopted and in use by the 
Chicago, Racine, Kalamazoo and other Western clubs. 

CAPTAIN. 

The Captain shall have charge of all contests (subject to the in- 
struction of the Executive Committee). He shall at each contest appoint 
two Judges, a Referee and a Clerk. He shall allot contestants their 
respective turns and see that the rods and tackle used conform to 
the rules of the contest. In his absence a substitute shall be selected 
by the members present. He shall have charge of all rods, lines, reels 
and other property belonging to the Club used in contests. 

RULE I. 

All competitors must be members of the Club. All competitions 
shall be arranged by the Executive Committee. The Captain shall en- 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT U 

force all its orders. The Referee shall announce each cast as scored 
to the Clerk at casting point (as per rule). The Judges shall determine 
the percentage of contestants in accordance with the rules. The Ref- 
eree shall keep time when necessary and shall keep an account of the 
delicacy percentage when required. He shall decide cases in which the 
Judges disagree and all appeals by contestants from the decision of the 
Judges. He shall interpret the rules in case of any misunderstanding, 
and shall decide all matters not covered by the rules. The decision of 
the Referee shall be final except as to a question of interpretation of 
rules; in such cases contestant shall have right of appeal to the Execu- 
tive Committee, provided that notice of such appeal be given to the 
Captain before the close of the day's contest. The Clerk shall see that 
each contestant is properly registered, keep the score of each contes- 
tant as announced by the Referee and shall file with the Secretary the 
record of the contests as furnished him by the Judges. 

RULE II. 



All rods used by competitors must be single handed rods and all 
casting shall be done single handed fair over head only. Rods shall 
not exceed eleven feet in length, except in the Long Distance Fly event 
when the weight and length of the rod is not limited. In Events for 
Distance and Accuracy. Fly, Obstacle Fly and Roll (Switch) Casting 
the weight shall not exceed 8^ ounces. In Events for Accuracy and 
Delicacy Fly and Light Tackle Fly the weights shall not exceed s 
ounces, but in these two events an allowance of ^4 ounce will be made 
for solid reel seats of metal (aluminum excepted), rubber, bone, ivory, 
or celluloid. 

RULE III. 

LEADERS, LINES AND REELS. 

Competitors may consult their own inclination in choice of reels 

and lines, but lines must not be knotted or weighted. Leaders must 

be of single gut and shall not be less than six nor more than nine 

feet in length. Reels in bait casting events must be free running, with- 



12 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

out click, drag, brake, spring, or abnormal device or adjustment which 
will tend to retard the movement of the spool. If tackle breaks at 
casting point contestant shall have the privilege of another cast. If 
line parts after casting weight leaves casting point, cast shall be scored o. 

RULE IV. 

FLIES AND CASTING WEIGHTS. 

Flies on casting weight used by competitor must be of the kind 
and style adopted by the Club, and must be approved by the Captain. 
One fly only shall be used, which shall not be larger than No. s, and 
on which the snell shall not exceed six inches in length. Hooks shall 
be broken at the bend. The casting weights shall be of wood tipped 
with metal, and must weigh exactly J^ ounce and ^ ounce according 
to the event. The J4 -ounce casting weights are to be J^ in diame- 
ter at their largest point, and the J4 -ounce casting weights are to be ^ 
inch in diameter at their largest point. 

RULE V. 

PLATFORM. 

All casting shall be done from a platform, the surface of which 
shall not be more than i8 inches above the water line, except events 
for Long Distance Bait Casting which shall be cast on the lawn. 

RULE VI. 

PRIZES, MEDALS, ETC. 

For each season's contest there may be such prizes or medals 
awarded as the Executive Committee may decide upon. They may be 
awarded on the basis of highest actual scores for the season, or under 
such system of "Handicap allowance" as may be determined upon by 
the Executive Committee, or in any other manner as from time to time 
is deemed advisable by the Executive Committee. The arrangements, 
however, for any system of awarding prizes are to be made and members 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 13 

notified. Under no circumstances shall any contestant be awarded more 
than one medal or prize except in case of trophy for highest general 
average or such trophies or prizes as may be given only in special tourna- 
ments or contests outside of the regular series of Club contests. In 
case any contestant wins two medals or prizes under any system in 
operation he shall be awarded the prize in which his score is highest 
if actual score alone is considered, or in which his final score, with 
allowance, is highest if handicap allowance prevails. No contestant shall 
be eligible for any prize if his dues are in arrears. 

RULE VII. 

TIES. 

In case of a tie, contestants shall cast off the tie at such time as 
may be designated by the Captain. Losers to take next lower place. In 
casting off a tie, the same handicap allowances to prevail for each 
contestant as he had in the regular contests in this Event. 

RULE VIII. 

ENTRIES AND RE-ENTRIES. 

Members missing any contest may re-enter in same on next scheduled 
contest day for that event, but not thereafter. Entries for each Qub 
contest will be received until that event for the day is completed, but 
not thereafter. 

The Executive Committee will fix upon days for contests for the 
ensuing year. The Secretary will send to each member a card or pub- 
lish in daily papers showing days of contests, hour of beginning, and 
any special rules that may have been made. 

RULE IX. 

IN GENERAL. 

While contests are in progress, members shall not make remarks to 
the Judges, Referee, or Contestants, or in any way distract their atten- 
tion. When the Captain calls for the contest, all persons shall withdraw 



14 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

from the casting platform, and from then on no practising shall be 
allowed from the platform until after the contest is closed. The Cap- 
tain shall suspend from the contest for the day any member guilty, in 
his opinion, of conduct unbecoming a gentleman or sportsman. 

EVENTS. 

LONG DISTANCE FLY. 

Each contestant shall be allowed seven minutes in which to cast 
for distance. He shall stand upon the platform and make his cast par- 
allel with a buoy line or measuring board upon which shall be marked 
accurately the points of distance from the platform. The length of cast 
shall be measured from where buoy line is made fast to the spot reached 
by the fly. No other than fair over head casting will be permitted. 

Should any competitor whip off fly he shall replace it with another 
one. No cast shall count after Judges have notified the contestant that 
fly is missing until after fly is replaced. No time allowed for replacing 
flies or any other accident. 

DISTANCE AND ACCURACY FLY. 

There shall be three 30-inch rings, distant 50, 55 and 60 feet from 
the edge of the casting platform. There shall be made five (5) casts 
at each ring. If the fly falls within the ring or on the rim of same the 
cast shall be considered perfect. For each foot or fraction of a foot 
outside the ring a demerit of one shall be made. The sum total of such 
demerits, divided by the number of casts, shall constitute the demerit 
per cent. The demerit per cent deducted from 100 shall be the per- 
centage. Not more than one minute shall be allowed in which to ex- 
tend line to 50-foot ring. When the contestant has extended his line 
and is ready, he shall call "score," and the next cast thereafter shall be 
counted. When five successive casts have been made at 50-foot ring, 
the Captain shall announce "next ring." Contestant must then lift his 
line, and if he so desires can make five "dry casts" before dropping 
his line at the 50-foot ring. A like procedure will be allowed be- 
tween the 55 and 60-foot rings. Should contestant whip oif his 
fly at any time after calling "score" he will be allowed to replac* 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 15 

fly and proceed. For this purpose he may "work out" to point 
where fly was lost, call ''score" and resume scoring at point where 
scoring stopped. The same procedure will be permitted if contes- 
tant's line is fouled through no fault of his. No cast shall count 
after Judges notify contestant that fly is lost. 

ACCURACY AND DELICACY FLY. 

There shall be three 30-inch rings, distant 35, 40 and 45 feet from 
edge of casting platform, and there shall be made five (5) casts at 
each ring. If the fly falls within the ring or on the rim, the accuracy 
shall be considered perfect. For each foot or fraction of a foot outside 
the ring a demerit of one shall be made. The sum total of such de- 
merits, divided by the number of casts, shall be considered the demerit 
per cent. The demerit per cent deducted from 100 shall be the ac- 
curacy per cent. In addition, there shall be kept an account of deli- 
cacy. The delicacy per cent shall be determined by the Judges and the 
Referee, in manner indicated below. 

Contestant will be allowed thirty seconds to extend his line by 
"dry fly" casting to 35-foot ring. Scoring will begin the first time 
the fly strikes the water. When contestant has made five (5) casts. 
Captain will announce "next ring." Contestant must then lift his line 
and in not less than one nor more than five "dry fly" casts reach 
the 40-foot ring. Scoring to begin the first time the fly strikes the 
water. A like procedure shall be followed between the 40 and 45- 
foot rings. No cast made without a fly shall be scored. If the fly 
is lost, contestant may replace same, and in not more than five "dry 
fly" casts resume his scoring. Not more than two "dry fly" casts will 
be allowed between scoring casts, except between rings, as stated. All 
casting shall be done from the reel. Contestant will be allowed to 
start with loose line and leader equal to length of rod, and may strip 
line but once in every retrieve, and must retrieve last cast. A per- 
fect cast is: (i) Fly to fall by its own weight without a splash. (2) 
Fly and leader to strike the water in advance of line with minimum 
disturbance of surface. (3) Retrieve must be made with minimum 
disturbance of surface. (4) The grace and ease of contestant, his 
"dry fly" cast, back cast and manner of extending line, shall be scored 
for style. A denlerit shall be scored for each failure to properly ex- 



16 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

ecute Nos. i, 2 and 3, and for lack of "style," as outlined in No. 4; 
and five (s) points shall be deducted for each demerit scored. The 
total of delicacy demerits, divided by the number of casts, deducted 
from 100, give the delicacy per cent. The accuracy per cent*' and the 
delicacy per cent, added together and divided by two, determine the 
final percentage. 

LIGHT TACKLE LONG-DISTANCE FLY. ^ 

This event vf\\\ be governed by same conditions that prevail in 
Event for Long Distance Fly Casting except that rod shall not weigh 
to exceed five ounces, with an allowSi^ce of Y^ ounce for solid reel seat, 
as provided for in Rule II. ' -. ' 

OBSTACLE FLY CASTING. 

There shall be one 30-inch ring, distant 50 feet from the ' casting 
point on platform. The obstacle shall ■, consist of two uprights, 6 feet 
apart, supporting a horizontal bar, 4 feet above the water. Obstacle 
shall be located directly between the ring and casting point, and 6 
feet from center of ring. There shall be five casts made at the ring. 
If the fly falls within the ring or on the rim thereof after passing 
under and without striking the obstac'^e, the cast shall be considered 
perfect. For each foot or fraction of a foot away from the ring a 
demerit of one shall be made. If the fly strikes the obstacle a demerit 
of five shall be made, in addition to the demerit for distance. If the 
fly hangs on the obstacle a demerit of fifteen shall be made, in addition 
to demerit for distance. If the fly strikes outside the obstacle, a de- 
merit of ten shall be made in addition to demerit for distance.' The 
sum total of all such demerits, divided by the number of casts and 
deducted from 100, shall be the percentage. Contestant shall be al- 
lowed thirty seconds to extend his line by "dry fly" casting. Scor- 
ing to commence the first time the fly strikes the water. After first 
cast, contestant may make not to exceed three "dry fly" casts between 
each scoring cast. 

ROLL FLY CASTING. 

In this Event an obstacle high enough to prevent an overhead cast 



PLATE II 




Fly Casting 
Finish of the Back Cast 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 17 

will be erected 20 feet back of the casting point on the platform. 
Contestant shall cast for distance and will be allowed five minutes in 
which to make his score. Contestant in starting will be allowed not 
more than 60 feet of line, including leader, extended beyond tip of rod. 
General rules for long distance casting to prevail otherwise. 

DISTANCE AND ACCURACY BAIT CASTING, ONE-HALF OUNCE. 

There will be a target provided for this Event with a center or 
bull's-eye thirty (30) inches in diameter, and so arranged that it can 
be located at distances of 60, 70, 80, 90 and 100 feet from casting 
point on platform to exact center of bull's-eye. There shall be made 
three casts at the target at each of the distances, viz. : fifteen casts in 
all. If casting weight falls within the 30-inch center, or bull's-eye, the 
cast shall be considered perfect. For each foot or fraction of a foot 
away from the 30-inch center a demerit of one shall be made. The 
sum total of such demerits divided by the number of casts shall be 
the demerit per cent. The demerit per cent deducted from 100 shall 
constitute the percentage. In case contestant casts with drag or click. 
Captain shall call "foul" and contestant shall be allowed another cast. 
The M -ounce casting weights provided for in Rule IV shall be used 
in this Event. 

DELICACY AND ACCURACY BAIT CASTING, ONE-FOURTH OUNCE 

In this Event, the center of the bull's-eye will be located at distances 
of 60, 65, 70, 75, and 80 feet from casting point on platform. Three 
casts shall be made at each distance. The casting weights are to be 
the 54 -ounce casting provided for in Rule IV. Scoring and other 
conditions to be the same as for Event for 3^ -ounce weights. 

LONG DISTANCE BAIT CASTING, ONE-HALF OUNCE. 

The casting in this Event shall be done on a V-shaped court, which 
is to be laid out as follows: From the casting point two diverging 
straight lines are to be laid out at an angle which shall cause them 
to be 30 feet apart at a distance of 100 feet away from the casting 
point. Diverging lines to be continued indefinitely at the same angle. 
Contestants each to make five (5) casts, in turn, one cast at a time. 



18 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

If casting weight falls outside the court, the cast shall be scored o. 
Length of cast to be computed from casting point to where weight 

falls INSIDE OF COURT. 

The sum total of the five casts in feet, divided by the number of 
casts, shall be the average and constitute the score of the contestant. 
All casting to be done from ground level. The casting weights used 
are to be the >2 -ounce casting weights provided for in Rule IV. Con- 
ditions regarding free running reels and casting with click or drag 
to prevail in this Event. 

Should weight fall inside court and bound out, cast to be scored 
from where weight first fell. 

The longest single cast, in court, will be made a matter of record 
and awarded a prize as noted. 

DELICACY BAIT LONG DISTANCE, ONE-FOURTH OUNCE. 

This Event will be governed by conditions that prevail in foregoing 
Event except that in this Event the J4 -ounce casting weight, as pro- 
vided for in Rule IV, must be used. 



BY a comparison of the foregoing rules it will be- 
seen that there are several differences and dis- 
crepancies which will allow of considerable ad- 
justing to a uniform standard, and I sincerely hope that 
this may be speedily accomplished by the Rules Commit- 
tee of the National Association. 

The growth of this popular sport in the last few 
years has been truly phenomenal and such as to re- 
flect vast credit upon the American sportsman's ap- 
preciation of gentlemanly, scientific sport. Besides 
the larger and more representative clubs of the Na- 
tional Association, numerous smaller clubs — smaller 
in membership but not in enthusiasm — are every- 
where in evidence. Their tournaments, which in 
former years were but mere small gatherings of club 
members, their friends and the ever-present ^^cranks," 
are now huge affairs of vast interest to the w^hole 
angling fraternity and the sporting world in general, 
looked forward to and prepared for many months in 
advance. 

The attendance, by comparison with other days, is 
tremendous and one sees all manner of men and 
women too, among the enthusiastic and interested 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 21 

spectators, for rich and poor, old and young, wise 
and callow — all are welded into one homogeneous 
lump of interested humanity by the magic word — 
"angling." One meets often the good, gray ''old 
timer," who shakes his head dubiously at many of 
the new-fangled and "high-falutin" notions, and is 
prone to discourse at great length on the wonderful 
qualities of his old Payne, Leonard, Murphy, Mitchell, 
Chubb, Devine, Thomas, Norris and rods of other 
famous makers — names ever dear and hallowed to the 
thoughtful and thankful angler. 

The "Noble Order of Irrepressible Cranks" is also 
everywhere in evidence, for angling, compared to 
other sports as a hot-bed for the production of this 
interesting species, has all the rest beaten "four ways 
from the jack" — and then some. Also is the keen 
and eager "Young American" very much in the fore- 
ground, and I look upon this as one of the healthiest 
signs for a rapid and prolonged growth of the sport. 
The aptitude and ability of the younger generation 
to absorb by watching and listening is a never-ending 
source of wonder to me, and the questioning and in- 
quisitive youngster of to-day will often be found on 
the morrow emulating your performances in pretty 
good style.. Indeed, the ability of some of our younger 



22 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

casters is such as to place them well up in the ''sec- 
ond division" and they are always coming on — never 
going back. The West has produced some veritable 
prodigies whose casting has been close to the "profes- 
sional" marks while I, personally, know of two young 
chaps, sons of a famous Lake Hopatcong guide, who 
can make many of our older casters take a seat pretty 
well towards the rear. The women, too, besides tak- 
ing a keen interest in the game and "rooting" hard 
for their "hubby," big brother or "best young man," 
have entered the sport as contest-ants and made a most 
creditable showing. The West, always progressive and 
assertive, boasts a team of five women who can de- 
feat any team of men not picked from the best, and 
the remarkable part of it is they can pretty nearly do 
it. Then, too, the makers of and dealers in fishing 
tackle will be found always "on deck," keenly alive 
to the situation and ever on the lookout for new ideas 
to spring later upon some less wide-awake rival. 
These same men and their interested representatives 
may be seen at every meet, making friends among the 
novices by timely advice, chaffing and "knocking" 
each other good-naturedly, and ever ready to assist 
and help along the proverbially over-worked and fret- 
ful "committee." Much of the success of modern 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 23 

tournament casting in this country is due to the steady 
interest and untiring work of many of these men, as 
is also the wonderful perfection of rods, reels, lines, 
etc., which they have produced after tiresome and 
costly experiments. 

I can remember very well my introduction to the 
game. I was watching one of the contests at the 
Sportsman's Show in New York — it was one of the 
middle-distance fly casting events — and remarked to 
a friend standing by me — "I think I could beat some 
of those chaps myself." His reply, naturally enough, 
was — *'why don't you try it?" This set me thinking, 
and I finally made up my mind to do it. I was ab- 
solutely green at the game and had no idea of what 
was the proper tackle to use, but I laid hold of a faith- 
ful old rod and entered the next event which was, I 
believe, the 75 foot class — that is, an event open to all 
who had never cast a greater distance in any tourna- 
ment contest. I failed to cover myself with glory in 
this, my first attempt, but while I finished as an ''also 
ran" I did defeat several of the other contestants, and 
was fairly "stung" by the microbe of tournament cast- 
ing, and became an enthusiastic follower of the sport 
from the hour. The next day I started out to get 
some standard book on the subject to read up and 



24 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

study, and was sorely disappointed when I was un- 
able to find one. So I did the next best thing I could 
think of and that was to find out who the best casters 
were and observe them. For many days after that I 
played the role of "rail-bird" and kept as close a 
watch as possible upon the experts in practice and in 
contest. I observed as far as possible the general 
build and action of their rods, the sizes and styles of 
their lines, the lengths of leaders, their methods of 
casting and retrieving the line, etc. I became ac- 
quainted with some of them and asked, I fear, many 
questions which were considered prying to say the 
least. 

Little good the questions did me, however, 
for I soon found, as I might have guessed, that Mr. 
Expert was not willing to give away any of the tricks 
and secrets of the game, if he could help it, and it was 
up to me to find out and learn what I could for my- 
self. Before the tournament was over I had about 
settled in my mind the kind of rod I wanted, and soon 
had three started — a 4-ounce, a 5-ounce and a 9-ounce. 

They were long in coming and the summer was 
gone before I received them, to my great regret, for 
i had hoped to be able to work out the perplexing 
question of a line by practise. While I had no chance 



PLATE III 




Fly Casting 
The Forward "Drive*' 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 25 

for out-door practise I lost no time when the next 
tournament at the Sportsman's Show came around 
and as soon as the doors opened I was busy in the 
big tank. 

I soon found, by the rarest of good fortune, that 
my three rods were magnificent and veritable won- 
ders of casting power. I had, in the meantime, been 
doing some theoretical work on the proper lines and 
great was my delight to find I was not far wrong. 

After considerable experimenting in the early 
morning, and by numerous bends and splices I got 
my lines balanced about right and started to practice 
as if my life depended upon the successful outcome. 
My hopes were more than realized, and at the end of 
the tournament — two weeks — I had scored in 15 
events, winning among others the championship 
events for the 4-ounce rod and the heavy rod. 

Although one may, in a measure, be "to the manner 
born," yet it requires much careful thinking out of 
puzzling "little things" and plenty of hard, conscien- 
tious work before the newcomer at the game can 
hope to land in the coveted "first division" and line 
up in the open events. Still, there is no question in 
the minds of everyone but that there are many modest 
fishermen" who would shine in most any tournament 



26 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

event, could they but be induced to make a try. To 
all such as may be interested and are held back by 
fear of ''making a fool of themselves" I beg them to 
profit by my example and have a try at this exciting 
and keenly interestmg, gentlemanly sport. At the same 
time I must sound this fair warning. If you do make a 
start, you are absolutely certain to be ''stung" by the 
casting microbe and the tournament fever soon runs 
riot in your system — nor is there any known cure 
at the present time. 

The fascination of bait-casting is particularly al- 
luring, and the most deadly in its action after it has 
once laid hold of one. Each time a cast is made, to 
result maybe in a miserable fizzle, in your delirium, 
you fancy an elfin voice whispering at your ear — 
"the next cast will do it." And so you reel and 
cast, reel and cast — each cast of more interest than 
the one before, until the day, never long enough, has 
slipped away ere you noticed it. I know a most genial 
gentleman who came to watch a bait-casting event 
at a tournament for the first time. He was an ex- 
pert fly fisherman, but knew nothing of the beautiful 
grace and precision of the overhead bait cast. After 
watching the event he was so taken with it, that he 
asked a competitor if he might try a few casts. After 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 27 

a few disastrous trials he made, to his great delight, 
a fairly good cast. That settled it for him! The 
next day he purchased a tournament rod, reel and 
casting line of the best make and hurried home. When 
his wife returned in the afternoon she was amazed 
to find this staid old fisherman seated upon the floor 
of their long drawing-room, totally oblivious of his 
surroundings, and casting away for dear life at an old 
opera hat in a far corner. 

I could mention many other incidents of a like 
sort to show what a hold the sport takes upon one, 
which all goes to prove the engrossing interest of the 
game. 

Probably the most interesting phase of tournament 
casting is the indoor meets at the New York Sports- 
man's Show, usually held during the last of February or 
first of March in Madison Square Garden. 

Owing to the season of the year any preparatory prac- 
tise is practicaly out of the question and the caster, who 
usually has time and opportunity at his disposal for prac- 
tise, must meet, for once, on more nearly equal terms 
with the busy city man. Here it is more a contest of nat- 
ural strength and skill, together with a knowledge of the 
finer points and "tricks of the trade," than the outdoor 



28 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

contest, which, for the reasons above stated, work to the 
disadvantage of the busy man. 

Then, too, everyone casts under more equal conditions 
and no competitor is aided by some favoring puff of 
wind. 

The scores, of course, are rarely, if ever, as good as 
in the outdoor events^ for it is manifestly harder to cast 
as far in dead air as in live air — the latter has a great 
buoying-up effect upon a line, to say nothing of a lucky 
cast being caught at the critical moment and helped 
along by a favoring puff of wind. 

Before we take up a description of the various events 
let us have a little word in general upon equipment. 
Right here I want to go on record as saying that this is 
no place for the beginner to save money by employing 
anything of the ''just as good" order. I know of many 
good fishermen who are content to rub along with the 
most reprehensible kit of fishing traps, apparently, they 
were able to secure and yet give a good account of them- 
selves after a day's fishing. Some men do, as a matter 
of fact, take pride in the possession of a lot of battered 
fishing gear and who have a holy horror of anything 
appearing at all new or up-to-date. 

Bear in mind that the strain upon all tackle in this 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 29 

game is far beyond that of any tactics employed in ac- 
tual fishing. 

Each and every article should be most carefully select- 
ed for its particular purpose and it should be tried and 
true or it will surely fail you at some critical moment. 

We will take up first the oldest and most time-hon- 
ored branch of the sport — the most kingly sport of all. 



Casting With the Fly Rod 

The remarks made above in reference to the quality 
and fitness of your tackle applies more particularly to 
your rod than anything else. 

My most earnest advice is to get the best you can buy. 
The everyday fisherman and the average caster has no 
idea of the really terrific strain the rod is called upon 
to bear in this game. Not only are the lines usually em- 
ployed by expert distance casters far heavier than those 
in use by fishermen, but, by extending and retrieving the 
line to the utmost limit of your power and ability you are 
constantly forcing the rod to its last fibre of strength 
from tip-top to butt-cap. This is not the slow, gentle 
cast by which you are wont to flick your flies lightly over 
some quiet pool or lake, but a thrashing, smashing, driv- 
ing cast that will hurl a heavy line the greatest possible 
distance your strength and skill can attain. 

Few rods will endure this fibre-racking strain for any 
length of time and still preserve their power and resil- 
iency — it is only the ^'exceptions" which will stand the 
racket and keep their "life" after a few seasons of tour- 



32 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

nament work. One can readily see, therefore, that this 
is pre-eminently a case of where "the best is none too 
good," while the failure of the "just as good" kinds is, 
without question, a foregone conclusion. 

I am a patriotic American and I am glad to be able 
to say that the best rods, comparing "speed" and power 
to weight and length, are made in this country — our 
English cousins to the contrary notwithstanding. This 
is especially true of the lighter rods, where the English 
are hopelessly outclassed, for our best makers long ago 
hit upon the knack of "hang" or balance, which the Eng- 
lish rods still lack. 

No one will gainsay but that the English turn out 
some fine specimens of work, for many of their rods, es- 
pecially the "double-built" with steel center, are most 
clever examples of the rodmaker's art, but I have yet 
to see one used where a far lighter American rod would 
not do the same work and do it better. Even in this 
country, however, there are really but two expert makers 
of tournament rods, and it goes without saying that their 
creations are marvels of strength, "speed" and exquisite 
workmanship. Tournament rods, made especially for the 
purpose, are built on radically different lines from the 
usual type of a rod made for fishing. The average an- 
gler, when handling one of these rods for the first time, 



PLATE IV 



1^ 







Fly Casting 
"The Shoot 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 33 

will be amazed at their "speed," strength and driving 
power which, by comparison, will make some old favorite 
of his seem a veritable ''limpy-go-fetch-it." Both makers 
referred to follow widely different theories in the design- 
ing and construction of their rods. One follows the prin- 
ciplethata very heavy middle-joint and tip is necessary to 
properly retrieve a long line cleanly and to ''kick" it out 
well behind on the back cast. The other claims that all 
the "lifting" can be done with the butt of the rod and 
that the greatest need is power for the sharp "drive" of 
the forward cast, so he uses a moderate middle and puts 
a tremendous driving power in the butt. 

Both makes have proved successful in different hands, 
and the question of superiority is still a hotly debated 
point among their many adherents. 

Personally, I much prefer the last mentioned style, al- 
though the perfect rod is probably a proper combination 
of both. It is a hard and almost impossible job for the 
tyro to pick out a proper rod for tournament work and 
he would do far better by putting himself in the hands 
of some one "in the know" or follow the advice of any 
reputable dealer who makes a specialty of these rods. 

It is sufficient to say here that they should be stiff and 
powerful and have a quick, snappy action, so that when 
whipped sh'arply forward and the butt held steady, they 



34 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

will spring back instantly. Large sized "snake" guides 
will be found the best and there should be a large agate 
"hand" guide, (the first guide) placed fairly close to the 
top of the butt joint. Many expert casters use, especially 
on the heavy rods, an extension handle built out from 
4 to 8 inches below the reel-seat. 

This is so managed that in recovering the line the long 
handle is held in position under the forearm and affords 
considerable more power in the retrieve by reason of the 
leverage obtained. (See Plate 9. ) It is, however, some- 
what difficult to manage and is not in general use, but 
I find it a great aid and use it on all heavy rods. 

In fly casting events for distance there are three classes 
— 4-ounce rods, 5-ounce rods and "unlimited" or heavy 
rods. The "unlimited" rods may be of any weight elected 
by the user, the only restriction being that they must not 
exceed 11 or 11^ feet in length, as the case may be. 

In the case of the 4 and 5-ounce rods it is usual to 
make an allowance of ^ of an ounce if the rods be made 
with a solid metal reel-seat (aluminum barred), so a rod 
of this description may weigh 4^4 or 5^ ounces and 
still be eligible 

This rule was drafted to prevent the more wealthy 
casters and the crafty "professional" from employing 
rods with skeleton reel-seats, or none at all, to the great 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 35 

disadvantage of the caster using a rod with a heavy 
metal seat. 

It is obvious that by reason of being able to save the 
weight of the reel-seat, and put the same weight into the 
rod, that a much more powerful rod would result. An 
old rule used to allow an additional ^ of an ounce for 
an ''independent" handle, but this has been generally dis- 
continued. 

Having selected a rod we now come to the line. 
Here our English friends turn the tables upon us and 
have it all their own way. 

While we make some very beautiful lines in this 
country it is certain that nothing can compare with the 
English soft enamel line for this purpose. Not only 
are they heavier than the hard enamel American lines, 
but they are far more flexible and do not kink. 

Their tapers are also much longer and more evenly 
balanced as a rule and they will outwear other lines two 
to one. Their one great objection is their cost — they 
run up as high as 20c. per yard — ^but they more than 
make up for it in their durability and beautiful handling. 

As mentioned before the lines used for tournament 
work are much heavier than those employed in fishing, 
for with the heavier line longer casts are possible and 
the line is more easily controlled. Of course, the line 



36 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

should be suited to and match the rod in order that 
both may work evenly together to the maximum of effi- 
ciency. This I have always found an extremely difficult 
thing to bring about and perfection is only arrived at 
after much practise and careful experimenting. 

While there is no general rule to apply which would 
guide one safely in the selection of a certain sized line 
for a certain weight rod, yet the following pairing of 
rod and line will be found fairly accurate in the main. 

As a rule the ''unlimited" rods, weighing from 7^ 
to 9 ounces^ should take a line running from No. A to 
No. 4 Salmon, (English sizes) in the center, while for 
the lighter rods No. 3 or Letter C for the 4-ounce and No. 
5 or Letter B for the 5-ounce will be about right. 
It is well to state here that line sizes are confus- 
ing in the extreme as all English makers do not conform 
to their own standard of sizes which, in turn, is much 
different from ours — the English ''A" being about the 
size of our "D." The tapers should be evenly balanced 
and long on both ends of the line, but no rule can be ap- 
plied here as so much depends upon the way in which the 
cast is handled. 

If the caster employs a long, ''slow" cast, carrying 
the line well out in the air, a fairly light line with very 
long front taper is essential, but the "fast" caster depends 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 37 

upon the ''rolling loop" and requires a line with very 
heavy center and moderate taper in front. 

Considerable experimenting has been done with the 
so-called "whip-lash" line but as yet it has found little 
favor. This line runs from a fine front taper, steadily 
increasing in size, until it reaches the maximum at a 
length of about 80 feet. It then tapers off sharply in 
the next few feet and runs the balance of its length in 
size H or I^ which are the smallest made. The theory 
of this line is to obtain the maximum in the ''shoot" by 
virtue of the very light back line. 

The great drawback to its use is that one must get the 
distance just right from the front to where the heavy 
line stops, which should be about the full length of line 
you are able to retrieve. If the heavy line be too short 
and the light back line is allowed to work out through 
the guides before the "shoot," the result will be that your 
cast is "killed" instantly. 

Expert casters as a rule use lines which they have 
"spliced" by hand of several different sizes, thus working 
out to their own satisfaction the proper weight and size 
of the center, length of front and back tapers, etc., as 
best suited to some particular rod or their own peculiar 
manner of casting. 

If you, dear reader, should try this and succeed in 



38 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

producing a satisfactory line, do not fail to note exactly 
the length and size of each part so it can be duplicated 
when desired. I once lost an important match on ac- 
count of losing the whole front taper of my favorite line 
at practise two days before the match and, as I had 
neglected to note and preserve the dimensions of the 
line, I was reduced to guess-work as I had no further 
opportunity for practise. 

I have been working steadily for over a year to per- 
fect a line for the ''rolling loop" style of casting for all 
three weights of rods — 4-ounce, 5-ounce and "unlimited." 
It is the most ticklish and exasperating thing I have ever 
attempted and I have not succeeded yet in getting just 
what I consider right for the heavy rods, although I 
have been more fortunate with the light rods and have a 
line for these which I do not believe can be improved 
upon. At the time I am writing this I have just received 
from England the samples of my latest attempt at the 
perfection of the heavy line and regret exceedingly, ow- 
ing to the inclement weather, that I have been unable to 
test it and set forth the results here. I will say, however, 
that this line embodies all the good features of previous 
"trials," with all the failures eliminated, and I expect and 
hope for great things of it. If this line proves to be 
right I will be able to duplicate it in quantity as each di- 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 39 

mension has been carefully worked out and the size re- 
corded. 

One is of the regulation double-tapered pattern and 
the other is a new application of the *'whip-lash" idea. I 
expect to try out both thoroughly at the coming Sports- 
man's Show in New York and will be glad to advise any 
casters particularly interested in the result. It is well to 
note here that the line for indoor casting should have a 
shorter and heavier front taper than a line for outdoor 
casting as in the indoor casting you have no *iive" air 
to help buoy up the line and no favoring breeze to catch 
and extend a long, light front taper. Leaders also play 
an important part, which should not be overlooked in the 
equipment. They should be tapered from very heavy 
gut (salmon) next to the line to a medium weight to 
gut at the end. The idea of this is to carry out the front 
taper still further without adding weight — the gut being 
much lighter than the line. In some events the lengths 
of leaders are restricted — see Rule 3 of Western Rules 
and Rule 9 of Eastern Rules — but where the length is 
unrestricted, experts use them of all lengths up to 20 
feet. For use with the heavy rod my favorite leader is 
18 feet in length and is composed of 9 feet heavy salmon 
gut, 6 feet^heavy bass gut and 3 feet medium trout gut. 
It is better to have the leader knotted for its full length 



40 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

and not two or more leaders joined together by loops. 
In distance casting the leader must stand a lot of whip- 
ping and snapping and it is well to get a good quality 
and be careful to soak it thoroughly before using. In 
some cases the flies to be used will be furnished by the 
tournament committee but the caster should always be 
well supplied himself. The ordinary snelled fly is useless 
as it will almost immediately be whipped oflF. Nothing 
is more annoying or disconcerting to one than, just as 
you have worked out your line to the point where you are 
ready for the final * 'shoot/' to hear the judges sing out — 
"fly oflF!" and be compelled to pull in your line and do 
it all over again, to say nothing of time and muscle lost. 
The smallest size permitted is No. 12 Sproat, old scale, 
and the best style is the metal eye or gut loop as they do 
not snap off easily. I prefer a fly made with a loop of 
heavy single gut — the loop % i"ch long. This is super- 
ior to the metal eyed hook as it does not cut through 
the loop or end of your leader and does not rot the leader 
with rust if allowed to dry on the leader after using. 

We now have our equipment for fly casting completed 
and are ready to step up on the platform and cast. Now 
is the time to remember things and, whatever you do, 
dont hurry. Keep cool and take plenty of time to see 
that everything is in proper shape and order before 



PLATE V 




Bait Casting 
Position at Start of Cast 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 41 

starting in. The usual period of. time allowed each con- 
testant for casting varies from 5 to 7 minutes, according- 
ly as time is or is not allowed to repair accidents, etc. 
Usually your best work will be done in the first few- 
minutes of casting but, nevertheless, take your time and 
remember that fluster and hurry is not only apt to get 
one '"rattled" but will surely subtract a lot from your ner- 
vous strength. First arrange your line as follows: If 
you keep your line on a reel, pull it all off. Throw it 
in loose coils at the right side of the platform. Place 
the reel well behind you on your right side or, better still, 
remove it from the platform altogether. (The reel is 
seldom used on the rod.) Now re-coil your line from 
the right to the left side of the platform, throwing it in 
larger loose coils so as to reduce the possibility of kinks 
and *'rat-nests" to a minimum. 

By this method of coiHng your line it pays out freely 
in the "shoot" as it always runs from the top of the coil 
and is far less likely to catch up a loop and snarl. Look 
about to see if there be any splinters in the platform, 
loose trash, etc., about to catch the line and impede the 
"shoot" — this is why the reel should be removed from 
the platform. If you find that preceding casters have 
tracked up any considerable amount of dirt, sand, etc., on 
the platform, get a broom or some convenient article and 



42 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

sweep it off^ for if you don't the grit is apt to cut and 
ruin your line. Now set up your rod and be careful to 
seat all ferrules tight. Run the line through the guides 
and attach the leader and fly, which have both been 
thoroughly soaked. Take your position in the center 
of the platform, with the right foot forward, and the 
coiled line lying to your left and a little behind you. (If 
left-handed reverse the position.) 

Now, suppose you are casting in the lOO foot class and 
the greatest amount of line you are able to retrieve is 85 
feet and you will depend upon the "shoot" for any dis- 
tance attained beyond that mark. Locate well the posi- 
tion of the 85 foot mark and keep your eye fixed upon 
it as much as possible to aid you in determining upon the 
right moment to *'shoot" your line. If the event be out 
of doors notice carefully the direction and strength of the 
wind and cast in such way as to obtain all the benefit pos- 
sible. 

After the judges have inspected your fly and pro- 
nounced it correct, grasp your rod firmly, with the thumb 
on top and pointing up the rod (See Plate 9), and hold 
the slack line in your left hand. 

Now begin to extend the line slowly, at each forward 
cast allowing the slack line to run through the fingers 
as long as it will "pull," but do not allow the slack line 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 43 

to nm until the "live" line has fairly started forward. 
This is what is called the "shoot" and while it is difficult 
to master, it is absolutely essential to long-distance cast- 
ing. 

At the end of each cast, before recovering, pull in with 
the left hand enough slack to straighten the line in the 
water and set it in motion toward you. At the same in- 
stant swing your body forward, so that the weight is on 
the right foot^ extend the rod to your full reach, keep- 
ing it about parallel with water (See Plate i), and 
recover the line smartly. Do not allow your line to 
settle deep in the water or you will have great difficulty 
in recovering it — after the line has been fairly extended 
and struck the water for the greater part of its length 
you cannot recover too quickly. Too much stress can- 
not be laid upon the importance of the recovery for upon 
it rests the success of your forward cast. You cannot 
make a good forward cast unless your back cast is 
straight and taut. The best casters use every effort to 
obtain a "high back line" — that is, at the finish of the 
back cast the line will all be straight out in the air and 
the fly high up, so that on the forward cast it will not 
flick the water or foul any obstruction. In order to 
obtain a pe'rfect back line the caster must study all the 
moves carefully and learn to do, practically, several 



44 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

things at the same time. Remember that at the begin- 
ning of the recovery the Hne should be in motion toward 
you so that somewhat of the dead weight is saved in the 
"Hft." While the rod should be extended well forward 
it should not be so far as to destroy the poise of the 
body, which should be perfectly balanced upon the right 
foot so as to throw the weight of the body back with 
the rod on the retrieve. The rod should be so held that 
it forms a straight line with the extended arm, the thumb 
on top and parallel with the rod and the wrist bent down- 
ward. In both the forward and backward motion the 
arm should move in a line as nearly vertical as possible 
and not out at the side — a good way to perfect your style 
is to practise casting with your elbow held close to your 
side. As soon as the line has been set in motion toward 
you, by the pull of the left hand, the recovery begins 
with a simultaneous lift with the rod by the muscles of 
the legs, back and forearm only. 

The wrist is still held in the downward position, 
and the upperarm and shoulder have yet their work 
to do. When the rod reaches an angle of about 50 
degrees from the water the upper-arm and shoulder 
take up the work and when the rod has almost 
reached a vertical position the movement is completed 
by a sharp upward and backward snap of the wrist. 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 45 

This last motion is the finishing touch, and makes 
the perfect back cast, but care must be taken that the 
rod is not allowed to go more than about 15 degrees 
beyond the vertical (See Plate 2). 

This is very important for if the rod is allowed to 
go further back you v/ill be almost certain to get a 
"bag" of slack in your back line, which will effectually 
kill your cast, as it is perfectly obvious that all slack 
must be taken up before any power can be applied for 
the forward cast. If you get this slack behind you — 
you will soon learn to tell by the feel of the rod — ■ 
pull in a little line with the left hand before starting 
the rod forward. As you finish the movement of the 
back cast let the shoulder go well back with the rod, 
so that you will have all the forward sweep possible, 
but do not let the tip sag behind. Practise this 
steadily with a medium length of line until you get 
the *'hang" of it, watching each cast behind by turn- 
ing the head, and keep it up until you obtain a 
straight, taut, high back cast. (I remember once hear- 
ing an old-time Irish salmon fisherman say that a back 
cast should go out behind so straight and stiff that a 
"bird could perch upon it!") As your body, too, has 
been swun^ back with the rod your weight is now on 
the left foot, the body inclined a little backw^ard, the 



46 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

arm raised so that the elbow is on a level with or a 
trifle above the shoulder, the forearm nearly vertical 
and the wrist bent backward. Now we come to the 
forward cast. To obtain the best results in the for- 
ward drive, the power must be applied, not only in 
the right way, but at the right time. 

This sounds difficult and let me tell you it is diffi- 
cult, and no mistake, for in order to do this properly 
one must judge and time the back cast to such a 
nicety that the forward motion shall begin just as 
the fly is fully extended behind. 

Those casters who are musicians, or who have a 
good "ear" for music, usually acquire this act more 
readily, as they are able to time the back cast by 
musical rythm. Failing in this, the best plan is, 
after you have completed the motion of the back cast, 
to move the rod forward a trifle until it is vertical, and 
hold it there until you feel the first pull of the line 
against the tip of the rod, and then let the rod go 
back again just a little to pick up any slack caused by 
the subsequent *'kick" of the line. Now the best 
forward cast is obtained by the "rooling loop." In 
order to do this the line cannot be cast slowly, but 
must be driven quickly forward and with great force. 
This causes the "belly," or heavy center of the line, 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 47 

to be driven forward in advance of the lighter taper, 
and in the shape of a long loop, with the heavy line 
below and the leader and fly on top. 

This loop unrolls upon itself as it flies through the 
air, the momentum of the heavy "belly" drawing after 
it from 5 to 20 feet of the fine back taper in the 
"shoot," and the whole line straightens out and settles 
down gracefully to the full extent of the cast, never 
"checking" and jerking back the fly as is so often the 
case in the slow straight cast. 

To make this cast, at the very instant that the fly 
is fully extended behind, let the rod go back just a 
little (keeping it nearly vertical) to take up any slack 
caused by the "kick" of the line as mentioned before. 
Instantly start the rod forward by a simultaneous move- 
ment of the body, shoulder and upper arm, accelerating 
the movement until the rod reaches a position slightly in 
advance of the vertical, when the forearm and wrist 
come into play (See Plate 3). In the second movement — 
wrist and forearm — put all the piower you possess, and 
bring your rod forward and down with a veritable 
crash, finishing with the sharpest zn/rist snap you are 
capable of. Meanwhile you should have imparted to 
the hutt of ihe rod a forward or pushing motion which 
is finished (just as you give the wrist snap) by pulling 



48 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

the handle of the rod sharply downward and toward 
you. This is the great secret of the cast and where and 
why so many tyros fail. The explanation is quite simple. 
The forward or pushing movement of the butt gives 
you more time during the forward cast in which to apply 
power to the rod. The effect of the pulling downward 
and inward of the handle at the finish of the wrist snap 
is to cause the tip of the rod to spring forward much 
more smartly than if the hand were allowed to go for- 
ward to the full reach of the arm. I find this par- 
ticular movement somewhat difficult to describe in such 
manner that it cannot be misunderstood, but I trust I 
have made my meaning plain enough for the beginner 
to grasp the idea and work it out in practise. It is best 
to practise the different movements separately until 
the correct ''style" is attained and then gradually work 
them into one extended motion, which it should be. In 
both casting and recovering, keep the rod and arm in as 
straight a line with each other as possible — never let the 
cast sway to the side. Work your line out, cast by cast, 
as far as you can recover it cleanly, which will be prac- 
tically the limit of your straight cast, and then prepare 
for the final "shoot." 

If, as you start your forward cast for this last effort, 
you do not feel a good hard "pull" from the line behind 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 49 

you, do not "shoot" the Hne but instead pull in a little 
slack with the left hand and try again. Keep this up 
until as you start your rod forward you feel that you 
have a good "live" line behind — that is, a good hard 
pull from the back line. Then, just as your loop shoots 
forward (as you finish the wrist snap), let go of the 
slack line held in the left hand, hold the rod low and 
the line will run out clean and true in the "shoot" (See 
Plate 4). 

If, in recovering the line you find you have attempted 
too much or made an awkward move, and the line comes 
back all wabbly and slack, do not try to thrash it out, 
but pull in slack quickly with the left hand and start 
over. Those who have mastered the "switch cast," which 
I will describe later, will find it a great aid at such 
times. If the event be one in which the judges will 
allow the caster time in case of accidents, such as whip- 
ping ofiP a fly, parting your leader, etc., and you find your- 
self suddenly in this fix — dont hurry, but take your 
time and don't get flustered. Call "time" and then take 
time to fix things up in good shape again before you 
start in. Remember that your casting time is never taken 
until you give the word "ready," so don't give it until 
you are ready. If your cast should fall foul of some 
obstacle, don't yank at it — call "time" at once and let 



50 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

someone remove it for you. By yanking at it you are 
likely to part a valuable leader or tear off the front 
taper of your pet line. If you hear your line snap and 
crack behind you on the back cast, call ''time" and pull 
in — you will find your fly whipped off or your leader 
gone. If you find yourself rapidly tiring in the middle 
of an event you might as well quit — you can do nothing 
with tired muscles and may lame yourself for the next 
event. 

Few people have any idea of the tremendous effort 
necessary to lift and retrieve a long line from the water 
and cast it forward again (until they try it) for it all 
looks so delightfully simple and easy. When one realizes, 
however, that you put into the effort every ounce of 
strength you possess it has a different aspect. 

The method of handling the lighter rods of the four 
and five-ounce classes differs but little in a general way. 
Of course you do not require or use as much force and 
more work is done by the wrist and fore-arm than in 
the case of the heavy rod, the wrist snap being the real 
crux in all forms of fly casting. As the lines are lighter 
you cannot "shoot" as far or as well, but it is done to 
great advantage in all styles of casting. 

The leaders are also shorter and lighter as they have 
less weight and length of line to balance in the forward 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 51 

taper. You will find it to advantage to wrap the handle 
of your rod with some material affording- a good firm 
grasp, and if your handle be at all thin^ to build it out so 
you can get a good hold without cramping the hand. I 
prefer to use plain white cotton twine — it is very soft, 
gives a fine grip and soaks up instantly any water or 
moisture on the hands which might cause a slip. If you 
use the extension handle you will find it a good plan to 
wrap that part with okonite, tire tape or soft rubber 
bands — this will go to prevent any side slip of the handle 
in casting. Watch your rod carefully for strains, loose 
ferrules, etc., and touch up immediately any places where 
the varnish has become scratched or broken. Take par- 
ticular pains in the care of your line and keep it as 
straight as possible. Wipe it off with a piece of chamois 
or soft linen each time you use it, and don't keep it on 
a reel with a small spool. Get one of the larger wooden 
reels for sale at any tackle store — the larger the better 
— and re-el your line on easily, not tight. Never put it on 
a reel or anything else by winding it around and around 
with the hand. By doing this you throw a kink into 
the line at every turn, and later on there will be the 
deuce to pay. 

If your line should become kinky from this or other 
causes get it straight again as soon as you can. If you 



52 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

are conveniently near a lake or fast-running stream your 
task is easy. 

Let all the line run down stream in some place where 
the water runs swiftly, and hold it there for 5 or 10 
minutes — the kink will disappear. If on a lake, let all 
the line out behind a boat and tow it for a few hundred 
yards — it will have the same effect as the stream. If 
you have neither time nor opportunity for either of the 
foregoing methods you can do well by making one end 
fast and drawing the line through the fingers, keeping 
a firm pressure always on the line. Do this several 
times, always working from the same end and not going 
back and forth — not even in polishing — and then, if 
you possibly can, stretch the line good and hard. The 
line should be dressed with deer fat each time it is used, 
to keep it soft and flexible and preserve it. It should 
then be rubbed down several times with the fingers, and 
polished with a bit of chamois or soft leather dipped in 
powdered graphite. A line so treated will never become 
sticky and will always remain soft and limber. The 
line should always be dressed and polished from the 
front end toward the back, so that all loose strands, 
cracks in the enamel, spHce wrappings, etc. will be filled 
up and offer the least possible resistance when running 
through the guides. 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 53 

If you graphite your lines you are sure to get more 
or less of it on your hands and clothes in casting, but 
this is of little moment compared to the benefit it is to 
the line. A good trick with leaders is to soak them 
thoroughly and then stretch them taut between two nails 
on a board (use brass or copper pins to avoid rust). 

When dry, coil loosely without twisting and tie the 
coils with a bit of tape or keep in as large a box as con- 
venient — a leader so treated will become straight in- 
stantly when again wetted. If you find it necessary to 
straighten a dry leader in a hurry it can be done by 
having someone hold one end, or by making it fast, and 
then rubbing it back and forth rapidly with a piece of 
rubber or soft leather. 



Bait Casting From the Reel 

This branch of the sport is by far the most widespread, 
and its followers, in the sense of tournament casting, 
probably outnumber the fly casters by ten to one. 
Throughout the West it is as popular and attracts as 
much attention as baseball, and its enthusiastic devotees 
are legion. It is to the Westerners we owe the develop- 
ment of the sport to its present standard of per- 
fection. They hold practically all records in bait cast- 
ing, except indoors, and in point of numbers of expert 
casters have the East hopelessly outclassed. While we 
have in the East some casters who can always be de- 
pended upon to give a good account of themselves and 
are to be feared in any tournament contest, for each 
one the West can produce a score, to say nothing of 
many women who are by no means mean antagonists. 

Through the Middle West, the home of bait casting, 
there are but few trout streams, and their bass, pickerel 
and **muskys" are not especially partial to the fly. Mr. 
Westerner jivas, therefore, compelled to bait-fish per- 
force and, owing to the vast number of weedy lakes and 



56 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

ponds which were generally his fishing grounds, he was 
obliged to find a way to cast straight and true. The old 
style ''side cast," with w^hich all old-timers are familiar, 
would not do. This cast was made by a wide sweep of 
the rod, which was held approximately at right angles 
to the body, and was found in the main to be too in- 
accurate and uncertain. It also required a longer rod 
and more room than was often convenient, and another 
way had to be found. 

So Mr. Westerner, always progressive, put on his 
''thinking cap" and evolved the short rod and the over- 
head cast. This solved all questions, and at once jumped 
into popular favor. It was light, easy to carry, power- 
ful in action and, in practised hands, the minnow, frog 
or artificial bait could be cast almost as accurately as 
desired. As the overhead cast is the only one now rec- 
ognized in tournament casting from the reel, we will 
deal with it alone. The best rods for tournament work 
are without question those made in one piece, although 
some prefer the jointed rods on account of their greater 
handiness to carry. 

While the one piece rods are admittedly awkward and 
imhandy to carry about on account of their length, to 
both the angler and the tournament caster they more 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 57 

than make up for this by their beautiful action and cast- 
ing quality. 

Split bamboo again is the chosen favorite by an over- 
whelming majority, although one may find lancewood, 
greenheart and other solid wood rods in the hands of ex- 
perts at any tournament. 

The handles, generally made in independent fashion — 
that is, separate from the rod — are to be found in every 
variety of size, shape, style of grasp, etc., according to 
one's individual fancy. 

The length of the rod is still a vexed and much 
discussed question — the lengths used by Eastern and 
Western experts running all the way from 6^ down to 
less than 4 feet long. 

Probably the standard length — for split bamboo — will 
work itself out somewhere around 5 feet over all (in- 
cluding handle) and it is quite likely that future tourna- 
ments will have classes for bait casting when the rods, 
as in fly casting, will be restricted to certain weights or 
lengths. I must admit that, at the present time, the 
proper length is still unsettled to my own satisfaction 
but my present choice is a one-piece split bamboo, 
measuring 5^ feet over all and weighing, without the 
handle, 3 ounces. (This is for the ^ ounce weight.) 

The handle, of my own designing, is of the larger grasp 



58 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

pattern, with hand grasp of sumach wood and forward 
grasp of cork. The hand grasp is i^ inches in diameter 
and 33^ inches long and the forward grasp i inch in 
diameter and 2^ inches long. The reel-seat, 3^ inches 
long, is sunk into the handle so that the upper edge or 
shoulder of the hand grasp makes a perfect finger hold 
which, to my mind, is far superior to the finger-hook 
often seen in the West. The reel-seat is fitted with a 
patent locking reel band which is worth its weight in gold 
for, by a turn or two of the band, I can lock the reel on 
the rod so tightly it cannot possibly work loose in casting, 
which is a common annoyance with the old style band. 
Many do not care for the forward grasp and, while it is 
unnecessary, it will always be found a great help and 
convenience when reeling in the line or when playing a 
fish. The guides should be of fairly large diameter and, 
to insure wear, should be of agate or steel. 

The ordinary German silver guides are too soft and 
are soon worn and cut into grooves and ridges by the 
line. 

There has been much talk among casters for years 
concerning the pattern and style of guide best suited for 
casting rods and affording the least amount of friction — 
and they are still talking about it. Personally, I think 
the amount of friction developed by a line running 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 59 

through a guide at high speed is too infinitesimal to con- 
sider. 

But, where there is friction is in a wet Hne dragging 
along the length of the rod. 

Every angler knows how persistently a wet line will 
stick and cling to a rod, especially if the line be a soft 
braided one, and for this reason the guides should be 
set well up on the rod and the tip-top should be offset, 
so that the line, in running out, passes free from guide 
to guide and does not touch the rod. 

Bait casting, as conducted at practically all tourna- 
ments, is for both distance and accuracy, with % and 1/4 
ounce weights of special pattern. 

Generall speaking, the rods used for the ^ -ounce 
events are fairly short and stiff. 

They should have a quick, snappy action and be so 
balanced that when whipped sharply they will spring 
back instantly and stay there. 

By this I mean that when a cast is made the rod should 
not spring in a big bow but have a short, sharp drive and 
at the finish of the movement should spring back imme- 
diately and remain rigid and not quiver and vibrate — 
this interferes seriously with the proper out-running of 
the line. 

My idea of a perfect rod is one that will ''p^^y" ^^^ ^^s 



60 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

length evenly and has the ''drive," or casting action, at or 
near the junction of the rod and handle. In this rod the 
tip is heavier in proportion to the butt than in the usual 
pattern and it has these two very distinct advantages. 
As the whole rod springs into action at the cast it is pos- 
sible to apply more power with less "elbow grease'' than 
with any other form and at the finish of the cast it springs 
back instantly to a rigid position and remains so, allowing 
the line to run out straight and true. 

For the 14 -ounce and accuracy events the rod should be 
a little longer and more pliable, for here the caster, on 
account of the lighter weight in use, has to depend more 
upon the spring' of the rod. With the longer rod it is also 
easier to get a good ''line" on the target in accuracy cast- 
ing and the cast is more easily controlled. 

The strain upon the rods is severe and it behooves the 
caster to get a good one if he expects it to stand the 
racket. Dealers who make a specialty of catering to the 
wants and needs of tournament casters usually make and 
keep a line of rods built especially for the purpose and it 
is only fair to suppose they should be far superior in 
"speed" and casting power to the rods made for ordinary 
fishing purposes. 

The next thing is the selection of a reel. If you are 
blessed (?) by having several friends who are tournament 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 61 

casters — God help you! To listen to them all and then 
decide upon a reel will tax both your reasoning powers 
and your patience to the utmost. If you undertake to 
consult them all you must not forget that all casters are 
full fledged members of good standing in the "Noble 
Order of Cranks" and that every caster's reel, like his 
"best girl," his dog and his favorite pipe is the "best 
ever" and no amount of arguments will shake his opinion. 
If you have formed no positive opinion on the subject 
yourself, my advice is to ask, if possible, some one caster 
whom you have fair reason to believe understands the 
subject and abide by his decision. 

It is generally conceded that the Talbot or Meek reels 
stand for all that is excellence in workmanship, easy-run- 
ning and wearing qualities and their creations hold prac- 
tically all records. 

There are, of course, many other good makes which 
will be found satisfactory in a measure and one has a long 
line of such reels to select from, running in price all the 
way from $5.00 to $60.00. 

Many people question the seemingly high price of fine 
reels without stopping to consider the amount of skilled 
labor and hand work in their construction. When one 
realizes that the bearings and working parts of fine reels 



62 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

are as carefully made and fitted as those of a watch, the 
prices asked seem very reasonable. 

The drilling and fitting into reels of jewels for end- 
bearings, pinions, etc., is in itself a fine art and calls for 
the highest grade of skilled labor and one realizes what 
perfect workmanship is attained when the degree of vari- 
ation allowed is less than one-thousandth part of a centi- 
meter. My advice to the beginner is, no matter what 
kind of rod you may select, to "let out" when it comes to 
getting a reel and buy one of the best. 

By all means get one with jeweled bearings, if you 
can afford it, for they will outwear many times any steel 
and bronze bearings and are nearly frictionless. Beware, 
however, if any of the so-called "jewelled" reels which 
have only "cap jewels." These are a perfect sham and 
are only made to sell. As a rule they are mere bits of 
agate, garnets or colored glass set in caps which screw on 
and are no more benefit to the reel than two handles would 
be — except for the possible decorative effect and the ex- 
tra price. See that the bearings are what is known as 
"hole jewels" and they should be of corundum or sap- 
phires. 

These jewels are set solidly into the frame of the reel, 
or in separate "collars," and have carefully drilled holes 
let in to take the fine steel ends of the axle, pinion and 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 63 

Other working parts and make practically frictionless and 
indestructible journals. Unfortunately there is no gener- 
ally accepted standard of reel as to size, length of spool 
etc., to which the tyro may be referred^, for this, together 
with the question of light versus heavy spools and handles, 
is still a hotly contested point among experts. The regu- 
lation maker's sizes of fine casting reels are No. 2, Small, 
No. 3, Medium and No. 4, Large, and the size most in 
popular favor for tournament work being the No. 3 with 
medium width spool. 

One school of casters claims superiority for the reel 
with heavy spool and handle by reason that, after the 
spool is started, the momentum of the heavy spool, aided 
by the fly-wheel effect of the heavy handle, is so great 
it is not so easily stopped by the necessary pressure of 
the thumb in casting. They base their argument on the 
ground that there is always plenty of muscle handy to 
start the heavy spool, and toward the end of the cast, 
when the impetus of the casting weight is rapidly dying 
away, the heavy spool will keep on running and "feed" 
line without dragging back against the casting weight. 
(Sounds reasonable, don^t it?). The other school insists 
upon the lightest possible form of construction for spool 
and handle — generally aluminum — claiming that the real 
point of excellence lies in the easy starting of the spool 



64 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

which, by having less inertia or dead weight to over- 
come, starts quicker and requires less pressure of the 
thumb to control the cast. 

They base their argument on the ground that a power- 
ful cast, necessary with the heavy reel, is hard to control 
and that the harder pressure required more than offsets 
its greater impetus — also, at the end of the cast the spool 
runs so easily as to be no drag upon the line and requires 
hardly any "thumbing." (Sounds reasonable, don't it?) 

I must confess that to me it appears very much like a 
case of "boss and boss" and the beginner is respectfully 
requested to try both and please himself — it is more than 
I have been able to do in many years. 

I have tried all the standard makes of reels, both geared 
and "free-spool," and in all manner of patterns, shapes 
and sizes without being able to reach a conclusion as to 
which reel was absolutely the best for distance casting. 
One word about the "free-spool," however. While this 
reel is very desirable for fishing, when a light bait is to 
be cast, for distance casting it is, so far as I am concerned, 
absolutely out of it. As this is the "light spool" theory 
carried to the extreme it would seem to reflect credit upon 
the reel with the heavy spool, but extremes are seldom 
good argimients. 

At the present time I am inclined to favor the full 



PLATE VI 




Bait Casting 
Position at end of Back Cast 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 65 

jewelled No. 2 Talbot, with medium width heavy spool 
and heavy handle. This reel, by virtue of its perfect 
bearings, starts so easily as to allow the "light spool" 
claimants little ground for argument on that point. 

Aluminum spools and handles are all right but I would 
advise against reels made wholly of aluminum for, unless 
great care is taken of them, the frame is too easily bent or 
twisted out of true. When you do get a good reel take 
good care of it. Remember it is a fine piece of mechan- 
ism and must not be neglected or abused if you expect it 
to serve you faithfully and well. Keep your reel clean, 
oil it occasionally and, when not in use, keep it in a 
leather box to protect it from injury, dirt and dust. 

By cleaning a reel I do not mean to clean the inside — 
this is a job that had better be left to the maker of the reel 
or some expert repairer. The cleaning itself is quite 
easy, being a mere matter of a brush and a little benzine, 
but the assembling of the parts again is quite a piece of 
work and the amateur who takes his reel apart will gener- 
ally have considerable difficulty in getting it so adjusted 
that it will run properly. In oiling a reel use only the 
best watch or clock oil you can get — a small vial will last 
for years — and remember that a reel should merely be 
lubricated and not Hooded. If a reel is kept clean and 
protected from dust the only parts that will require at 



66 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

all frequent oiling will be the end-bearings. To oil these 
simply unscrew the oil-caps, with which all good reels 
are fitted, and touch the bearings with a feather, quill or 
splinter of wood dipped in oil. 

The lines used for bait casting in tournament 
events are of braided silk and exceedingly fine, some 
of them being veritable cobwebs. Both soft and 
hard braided lines are used but the general tend- 
ency is toward the soft braided line and of the smallest 
size obtainable. The soft braided line is not so apt to 
spring up in coils upon the spool as the hard braid and it 
runs out smoothly under the thumb. I have just per- 
fected myself, after eighteen months' steady experiment- 
ing, a line which is far and away superior to anything else 
of the kind I have ever seen and I expect great results 
from it as it has jumped into instant favor among expert 
casters. As it takes a lot of these fine lines to fill up the 
spool it is customary to first wind the spool partly with 
string or heavier line before putting on the fine line. 
Some casters have the spools of their reels built up with 
cork or light wood, cemented with shellac to stand the 
water, and then turned perfectly round in a lathe. This 
makes a fine and satisfactory ''backing" but is somewhat 
difficult to put on and is troublesome to remove if more 
line is needed on the spool. When using these fine lines 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 67 

it is necessary to put on a ''trace" or leader of heavy line 
to stand the first sharp thrash as the cast is started. 

The trace should be long enough to give a foot or scy 
of free line beyond the tip of the rod and extend back 
to and take several turns around the spool. The knot 
or splice should be made carefully and as small as pos- 
sible — if reeled up on the extreme right of the spool it 
will give no trouble whatever in casting. 

Do not put too much line on your reel — this is a com- 
mon fault. The spool should be fairly full but not en- 
tirely so — leave about ]4> of an inch of the spool-ends 
visible. 

Always dry your line immediately after using or it will 
soon become sticky and rotten. 

Get a good line-dryer — it will soon pay for itself in the 
saving of your lines. 

The regulation tournament weights, called ''plugs," are 
^ and 54 ounces in weight. 

They are cylindrical shaped pieces of wood, tipped 
with lead at one end, and their flight is steady and true. 
(See Rule IV of Western Rules.) 

Those finished with white enamel will be found the 
best as their flight is more easily followed by the eye, es- 
pecially in accuracy casting. 

In overheard casting, tournament fashion, it is first 



68 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

necessary to acquire the knack of starting your reel at 
high speed and to obtain control of the running reel, 
called "thumbing."' 

Both require considerable practise to develop to any 
degree of proficiency and the ''thumbing" is seldom 
brought to perfection. 

There are two widely different styles of casting — the 
''wrist cast" and the "body cast." We will take the more 
popular "wrist cast" first as it is the easier and more 
graceful of the two. Stand facing the direction in which 
the cast is to be made, with the right foot forward and 
the weight of the body evenly balanced on both feet. 
Grasp the rod firmly and hold it in such position that the 
reel will be turned to the left at an angle of about 45 de- 
grees, with the handle, of course, on top. (See Plates 8 
and 5.) 

The first joint of the thumb should rest upon the rear 
pillar or cross bar of the reel, with the ball of the thumb 
pressing firmly upon the spooled line, and the side of the 
thumb just touching the left side of the spool. The 
"plug" should have a lead of about 18 inches beyond the 
end of the rod, although more or less lead is used accord- 
ing to preference. Extend the rod in front of you in an 
easy position, without stretching the arm to its full reach, 
and in a line with the direction in which the cast is to be 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 69 

made. Raise the rod slowly, keeping it vertical as it 
passes over the shoulder, until the elbow is just above 
the level of your eyes. Stop the arm here and continue 
the motion with the forearm, bending the wrist back- 
ward until the rod reaches a position nearly level 
behind you. (See Plate 6.) In making this 
movement remember that the action of the wrist should 
be at the end of the movement — this is to swing the 
*'plug" out behind in the proper position. Now the 
proper cast for distance is a sharp, quick, drknng cast, 
so that the "plug" travels in as straight a line as possible 
and does not take a high, curving flight. There are 
three very good reasons for this : more power is ap- 
plied in the actual direction of the cast — the "plug" of- 
fers the least possible resistance to an adverse wind and 
it has less line to drag after it. 

To do this properly two motions are practically made 
at once — that is, to the forward motion of the rod is 
added, near the finish, a sharp inward and downward 
pull of the handle. This gives an extra sharp snap or 
"drive" to the cast and starts the "plug" like a bullet. 

To begin the forward movement start the rod with an 
easy movement of the whole arm, quickly accelerating 
the motion until the rod is at an angle of about 45 degrees 
behind you, approaching the vertical. 



70 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

At this point the fore-arm and wrist, acting together, 
whip the rod forward with all the power and ''snap" 
possible. It is at this moment that the downward and 
pulling movement should be applied to the butt. 
In other words, the butt is really pulled in to- 
ward you a trifle, as it comes downward with the cast, 
and the handle does not go forward to the full extent of 
the reach, the effect being to spring the tip of the rod 
forward more sharply than if the hand described the full 
arc of the cast. It is practically the same motion as ap- 
plied to the finish of the cast with the fly rod, only the 
pushing motion is left out. At the finish of the cast the 
rod should be extended straight in front of you, not quite 
at arm's length by reason of the butt being pulled in to- 
ward you, and at an angle slightly above the level. ( See 
Plate 7.) We now come to the ''thumbing" of the reel, 
which is the hardest nut of all to crack, and here is 
where the beginner will have lots of fun with himself. 

At the beginning of the forward motion of the rod 
the thumb must press upon the spool hard to guard 
against a premature starting of the reel. As the rod 
gathers speed going forward the pressure is relaxed just 
enough to let the reel start sloicly. At the beginng of 
the second part of the cast — fore-arm and wrist — the 
pressure is still further relaxed and becomes gradually 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 71 

lighter until, as the final ''wrist snap" is given the thumb 
just barely touches the now flying spool. 

Hold the rod steady, keep the joint of the thumb 
pressed against the rear pillar of the reel, gradually bend- 
ing the tip of the thumb downward as the line runs 
from the spool. An easy pressure is absolutely neces- 
sary to obtain distance, so touch the spool as lightly as 
possible while the line is running out — just so you can 
feel it. Remember that the pressure of the thumb is 
never entirely relaxed and is hard at the start and light 
at the finish of a cast. Don't be discouraged if your 
first attempts seem bungling and your ''plug" persists in 
diving into the water a few feet in front of you and 
don't "cuss" to any great extent if you are compelled, 
perforce, to spend much of your time picking out snarls 
and "rat-nests" from your reel. We have all "been 
there" and know it takes both patience and perseverance 
galore before one "gets the hang of it." This same 
"thumbing" of the reel is about the most difficult thing to 
learn I ever attempted and I have not mastered it yet, 
nor have I ever seen a caster who had perfect control of 
his reel at all times and who did not fetch up now and 
then with ^ "beaut" of a "rat-nest." The best plan to 
follow is to "go it easy" until you begin to catch the 
knack and then practise — practise — practise ! Do not at- 



72 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

tempt to cast but a few feet at first, gradually extending" 
the distance as you become acquainted with your reel, 
until you are able to put all your power into the cast. 
A good way to practise ''thumbing" and to observe the 
manner in which the line runs from the spool is, when 
casting, to forget all about your "plug" and zmtch your 
reel. After the first rush of the line you will be able to 
follow its action on the spool quite closely. 

You will observe that as the pressure of the thumb 
is relaxed the line will have a tendency to spring up on 
the spool in a number of loose coils and, if the pressure 
be too light, to carry a loop around the spool the wrong 
Avay and instantly develop the caster's bete noir — the 
cursed ''back-lash." When reeling in the line after a 
cast, hold the rod in the left hand — here is where the for- 
ward grasp on the handle comes in — so that the line may 
be held between the thumb and forefinger. 

Keep a firm pressure upon the line and be careful to 
wind it evenly upon the spool and fairly tight. If the 
line is spooled on loose or unevenly you are courting cer- 
tain disaster in the shape of the inevitable "back-lash." 

Some casters endeavor to keep the line as dry as pos- 
sible and this can be done tO' a considerable extent by 
holding the tip of the rod as high as possible when reel- 
ing in. If the thumb becomes sore or chafed on the end. 



PLATE VII 




Bait Casting 
Position at end of Cast 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 73 

or the fingers of the left hand are cut by the Hne, try 
casting with a thumb-stall or finger-cot, made for the 
purpose and for sale at any good tackle store. Naturally, 
you lose a lot of "feel" in the thumb but I know of 
casters who use them without apparently, hurting their 
casting in the least. 

The "body cast," a favorite with many Western casters, 
is generally made as follows. Stand a few feet from the 
edge of the platform with the left foot forward and the 
right foot well behind. Extend the rod in front to the 
full reach of the arm. Swing the rod back, holding the 
arm nearly stiff, and let the whole arm go well behind you. 
As the arm is swung back the shoulder is allowed to go 
back as far as it will go and the body inclined back- 
ward until the weight is shifted to the right foot. The 
tip of the rod is allowed to go a little lower behind you 
than in the "wrist cast" and, instead of being carried 
straight back, the rod is swung around behind you so that 
the tip will be a little to your left at the end of the back- 
ward motion. 

In the forward motion the rod is swept forward al- 
most at arm's length and the weight thrown hard with 
it. There 1s no "pulling" of the butt in this cast and the 
forward motion is completed by a sharp wrist-snap. At 
the finish of this cast the body will be thrown well for- 



74 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

ward (often the right foot is carried along and swung 
ahead) and the rod extended to the full reach. As the 
rod is swung a little to the left in the backward move- 
ment, it goes a little to the right in the forward move- 
ment and does not pass straight over the shoulder. 

It is really the overhead cast with a little of the side 
cast added and is tremendously powerful but difficult to 
control. Some casters make a skip, or even a few run- 
ning steps, before starting the body cast^ as a ball player 
usually does before attempting a long throw. There is 
practically no difference in the management of the reel 
except that it is started a little sooner and with less of a 
jerk, but the flight of the *'plug" is much higher than 
in the "wrist cast." 



Bait Casting for Accuracy 

In accuracy casting- at targets it is best to use a moder- 
ately long rod — say from 6 to 6)/ feet — and it should 
be fairly pliable. Here a great deal depends upon the 
nicety and ease of your casting and, especially at the 
close targets, your cast should be started gently in order 
to give you time to catch sight of the "plug" in the air 
and follow its thght with your eye. Hence the pliable 
rod, which requires less "elbow grease," and is therefore 
more easily handled. Stand in an easy position with your 
weight evenly balanced on both feet. Point the tip of 
the rod straight at the target. 

Raise the rod slowly and, as you do so. with the tip 
draw an imaginary vertical line up from the target and 
against the background. Keep your eyes fixed upon this 
line all the time and as you cast forward, which should 
be done smoothly and easily, bring- the tip straight down 
the imaginary line. This will keep your cast straight 
in a line with the target and the distance is controlled 
by pressure upon the reel. With a little practise you 
will be surprised at the really wonderful accuracy which 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 77 

can be attained as one can, after a while, place the *'plug" 
practically wherever they have a mind to. 

Watch the flight of your '"plug" carefully (here is 
where the white enamelled ones come in) in order to 
gauge the distance of the cast. 

It is well to stand a little back from the Q(\^q of the 
platform so that if you see a cast is likely to fall short 
of the target you can help out by stepping forward and 
extending the rod. If you over-cast the target, which is 
by far the safer way, you stop the cast, of course, by 
checking the reel so that the **plug" will drop at the 
right moment. Never check your reel suddenly, if you 
can possibly avoid it, as by doing so you are almost ccr- 
ain to cause your "plug" to kick back several feet by 
reason of the sudden jerk on the line. 

It is better not to cast very high as it is then difficult 
to correctly gauge the distance, but cast as low as possible 
and, especially at the close targets, you will able to tell 
almost exactly when to drop the ''plug." Practise casting 
with as near the same motion and the same amount of 
speed each time — it will do much toward improving your 
average and teaching you to gauge the distance of the 
cast accurately. 

If the event be held outdoors, you will have to allow 
for the wind, if there be any, and this will tax your cal- 



78 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

culation to the utmost. Should there be a cross wind, it 
is better to put a Httle more "speed" in the cast and drive 
the *'pkig" directly at the target, aiming a trifle to the 
side from which the wind blows. 



Bait Casting With the Slack Line 

This is the famous English ''Nottingham" cast and 
while we employ a different method the result is the 
same. It is seldom met with in this country outside of a 
few Eastern waters and is probably best known with us 
as the ''Greenwood Lake" cast. The EngHsh method, 
which is generally used with long and heavy rods, is a 
two-handed cast made by swinging the body half-way 
around, holding the rod stiff at first and finishing the 
cast with the arms. The "Greenwood Lake" cast is quite 
different and is made with a heavy fly rod, swung over 
the shoulder, with a movement which is really a combi- 
nation of a bait and fly casting motion. The rods should 
be from lo^ to ii^ feet long and very stiff and 
powerful. The line, which is the most important part 
of this equipment, should be a soft enamel English line of 
small size and about 150 feet long. The line should be 
well worked and polished until it is as flexible and limber 
as possible, for everything depends upon it running out 
without kinking. The weight used is the regulation Yz- 
ounce casting weight, which is attached directly to the 



PLATE VIII 




Showing the Proper Grasp for the Bait Rod. 



PLATE IX 




Showing the Proper Grasp for the Fly Rod 
When Using the Long Handle. 



TOURNAMENT CASTING 81 

line, no leader being used. The idea of this cast is one 
which is applicable for bait casting with a fly rod and us- 
ing no reel. The "plug" should have a lead of from 
10 to 15 feet of free line beyond the end of the rod and 
must be swung behind you until it strikes the water and 
be lifted therefrom at every cast. 

First arrange your line upon the platform in the same 
manner as for fly casting. 

Under the rules you are not allowed to really coil it 
upon the platform but if you are careful you can throw 
it in loose coils which will be nearly the same and work 
practically as well, barring kinks. 

After rigging your rod and having the "plug" attached, 
twitch the "plug" out a few feet in front, swing it easily 
behind you and cast it about 30 feet away in front. 

The best length of lead to use is about equal to your 
rod, so if you are using a lo-foot rod take 
note of some mark, if possible, about 20 feet 
away from you which will represent the combined 
length of your rod, and the free line in the lead. This 
mark is to guide you, when recovering line, as to the 
proper time to lift the "plug" from the water. Stand 
in the sanie position as for fly casting, holding the 
slack line in the left hand. Incline the body forward 
a little and extend the rod as far as you can reach 



82 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

easily. Now begin to pull in slack with the left hand 
and, as the "plug" reaches the mark you have set, or 
at the distance you consider right, swing the rod easily 
backward, letting the arm and shoulder go as far back 
as you can without stretching (inclining the body 
backward at the same time) until the "plug" strikes 
the water behind you. 

Generally you will hear it splash, but, if not, you can 
readily tell by the sudden stop of the pull on the rod. 

The left hand, still holding the line tightly, should 
also be raised a little and crossed in front of the body. 

At the 7'cry instant the "plug" strikes the water be- 
hind, begin the forward cast. Start the movement 
with a forward motion of the shoulder and, as soon as 
the dead weight is started (practically at once) swing 
the rod forward — straight over the shoulder — with all 
the force you can. As the rod reaches a vertical posi- 
tion, which should be as it passes over the shoulder, 
with the wrist and fore-arm give the sharpest and 
snappiest forward drive you possible can, carrying the 
motion forward to the full reach of the arm. Just as 
you finish the wrist-snap, let go of the slack line, hold 
the rod steady at an angle of about 25 degrees above 
the level, and, if it does not kink, your line should run 
out true. 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 83 

As you throw the **plug-" behind you preparatory to 
the forward cast, be careful to swing it back easily 
and smoothly so it will not jerk, the idea being- to 
have the line extended as straight as possible behind 
so that as you begin the forward cast there will be no 
slack behind, and the "plug" be started instantly. To 
get it down fine you should really make the back cast 
and the forward cast all in one extended movement 
with no noticeable pause between. 

Remember that the "plug" must strike the water in 
the back cast and be raised therefrom at each cast or 
it is a foul cast and does not score. When pulling in 
the line after a cast has been made, which should be 
done as fast as possible, remember to throw the line 
in as much of a coil as possible and don't have it lying 
every which way on the platform. 

Don't forget that practically everything depends 
upon the smooth and even out-running of the line, 
and keep it as flexible and free from kinks as possible. 
The line should be dressed and cared for the same as 
the lines for fly casting, but extra pains should be 
taken to guard against kinks in this line. 



(4 



Switch" or Roll Casting 



This is, to my mind, the most interesting and fascinat- 
ing of all tournament events, both to the caster and the 
spectator, and it is a pity that more of our casters do not 
take it up. Most every brook fisherman knows it in 
some form and often employs it to good advantage, at 
times when no other style of cast would be possible. 
Briefly, the idea of the ''switch" cast is to make a 
forward cast with the fly without removing the line 
entirely from the water. It is done by drawing the 
rod slov/ly backward, leaving the line in the water, 
and continuing the backward- motion until a loop of 
line is carried back about 15 to 20 feet behind you 
(Eastern Rules 15 feet — Western Rules 20 feet). The 
rod is then whipped sharply forward, the fly is drawn 
in toward you, turns behind and follows the line for- 
ward in a rapidly rolling loop upon the water. 

The great fascination of this cast is in watching the 
long loop unroll upon itself in the water until, at the 
finish, the fly leaps lightly forward to the limit of the 
cast. The proper rods for this cast should be a little 



86 



TOtU^N.lMliN'r c.isriNG 



\\^\\\cv than tlu)sc iisod in tlu- "iinliiniloil" lly casting 
events, and a tritlc more pliable— say abont 7 to 7)1. 
onnees. VUc line. too. sluuiKl be lii^bter and have a 
\iM\' lont; taper at botii ends. An ordinary length of 
leader, abont () fei>l. will generally work best as loo 
K>nL; a leailet will not "switeh" I'orward well at the 
end ol the roll. .Ariani^e yonr line and stand as t't>r 
tlv easting-, bnt near the left side of the platform in 
order to i;ivo the li>op plent\ td' rt>oni to pass yon on 
the rii^ht siile. In these e\iM\ls it is enstomar)' to 
allow some owe t*> draw ont yonr line to a ptMnt not 
over (H> feet ftom the platl\>rm (See "Roll C^istinj;" 
in Western Unles). If this is not allowed, draw ont 
abont .\o feel kA line beyoml the tip of the rod and 
start tlu^ east easily, nsim;- the left hand if possible, 
as this st\ le i'^i easting is partienlarly severe npon both 
rod and easter. Mold {he slaek line in the left hanil, 
bnt (li.'i not pnll in as in tly eastinj;'. ICxtend the rod 
as far as yon ean reaeh and draw it baek slou'ly. hold- 
ini^' the rod, as it passes y«.nn' sluuddiM. so that it will 
be inelined slii^htly to the rii^ht. 

(\)iuinni^ the baekwatil nu^tion of the roil mitil the 
arm and shonldiM' are eartied well baek. aeeeleratinj;" 
the mt>tiiMi slij^htlv toward the eml. aUowinj;- the rcxl 
t(^ «'(> a little further baek than in tlv eastim^. This 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 87 

will carry back quite a bit of line in the shape of a 
loop extending down from the tip of the rod behind 
you, forward across the platform and out into the 
water. 

Start the forward movement of the rod rather 
slowly, quickly accelerating the motion as the rod 
nears the vertical, and finish the movement the same 
as for fly casting. At each forward movement of the 
rod the loop will be driven a little further forward in 
the water until the whole line is in motion and the 
fly will be drawn in, turn .behind you and be 
carried forward to the length of the line. Now, if you 
started with the left hand, change the rod to the right 
hand and begin to extend the line by releasing a little of 
the slack line held in the left h^nd at each forward cast, 
but not until the loop has started forward. At each suc- 
cessive cast you will carry a little more line behind 
you in the loop until your line nearly strikes the 
barrier behind you and your forward loop will strike 
a little further out in the water. 

Increase the power and snap of the rod motion with 
every cast until you feel you have the loop worked 
out nearly ~as far as it will go. Then reach out with 
the rod a little further, draw the line back a trifle 
quicker, and, just as the loop has passed well behind, 



88 TOrR\'AME\'T CASTIXG 

bring your rod forward w'nh all tlic power you can 
put into it. Continue the forward motion as far as you 
can reach, let go the slack with the left hand and 
allow the line to "shoot." As you swing the rod past 
you in the forward movement keep the tip inclined a 
trifle to the right so as to allow the loop plenty of 
room to pass — if you forget to do this you are likely 
to get a crack on the ear from the lino that will make 
3'ou remember it the next time. If you get your for- 
ward cast bungled up and the rolling movement of 
the line is stopped, don't try to thrash it out but pull 
in a little slack and start it over. When you have the 
rolling loop started in the water keep it moving as 
rapidly as possible and don't lot it sink any tloopor 
than you can help — if allowed to sink much you will 
find it very hard to drive forward. Watch the loop 
as it passes you on the backward movement and start 
the forward cast as soon as the loop has fairly passed 
behind. Don't worry about the barrier behind you — 
it will not effect the action of your loop to any extent 
even if you hit it — it is only to stop a straight over- 
head cast. 



Fly Casting for Accuracy 

Up to and iiu'huliiii; tho present time the conditions 
governing" the ovontvS for this stylo of casting- have 
been different at most all tonrnanients. 

Generally speaking- the tragets to be cast at. vary in 
size and in distance from the platform, the first target 
being from 40 to 50 feet away, and the subsecpient 
targets, nsually tiirco in uinuhcr, being {\\)\u 5 to 10 
feet apart. 

The Westerners generall\ nse a target 30 inches in 
diameter (See "Oistance and Accuracy Fly" — Western 
Rules) and a cast which strikes the target is consid- 
ered perfect ! 

This hardly speaks well lor the accuracy of their 
fly casters for such a target would be considered a 
veritable **cinch" by tnir Eastern casters. At the big 
Madison Stpiare Garden tournaments the targets here- 
tofore useil in the accuracy events have been but () 
inches in diameter and yet scores have been made 
above go per cent perfect ! 

If the event be a cond)iuatiou of delicacv and ac- 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 91 

curacy, one would proceed in much the same manner 
and with the same tackle as for fishing, so I will omit 
that part and speak of the events for accuracy only. 
In this we go about it a little differently and with dif- 
ferent tackle. 

Use a rod from 9 to 10 feet in length and fairly 
pliable, as most of the work is done by the wrist. Use 
as heavy a line as the rod will handle easily and with 
little or no taper. 

The leader should be very heavy and not over 3 
feet long — shorter if you are allowed to use it — and 
put on a good big fly. Stretch your leader well and 
see that it is absolutely straight. 

In some tournaments you are allowed to make a few 
preparatory casts in the water to measure the distance 
and in others the casts must be made in the air, "dry 
fly" fashion, and the fly not allowed to touch the 
water. Whichever it is, do your best to gauge the 
distance exactly and catch the slack line in the left 
hand and hold it to mark the proper length of line. 

Now by far the most accurate way is not to cast the 
fly out above the target and let it drop, which is the 
proceeding when delicacy counts, but to roll out the 
line so that the fly lands right slap on the target. With 
a heavy line, short heavy leader and large fly you 



92 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

should, after a little practise, be able to send your line 
out as straight as a ram-rod and land your fly with 
a "spat" squarely on the target. As soon as you have 
estimated or measured the distance to the target as 
well as possible and marked the distance by grasping 
the slack line at the right point, recover your line 
smoothly and without jerking. Let the rod go back 
well behind you but keep the elbow low and do the work 
with the fore-arm and wrist. Drop the tip of the rod 
a little lower than usual on the back cast in order to 
get the loop in the line. As the back cast is started 
pull in with the left hand about two feet of slack 
line and hold it. Draw with the eye an imaginary 
vertical line up from the target and on the forward 
cast bring the rod straight down this line. Cast low, 
and at the finish of the cast hold the rod steady and 
pointed straight at the target. Just before the cast 
is fully extended let the left hand go forward with 
the line to the proper mark, but do not release the line. 

This is done so that the line straightens out with- 
out any jerk, as it would if the distance were fully 
cast without the line being eased from behind. When 
you recover, reach out well with the rod and pull in 
slack again with the left hand, always holding the 
line at the same place. Of course, this is neither a 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 93 

pretty nor delicate cast, as the heavy line turns the 
fly over with a "spat," but it is accuracy we are after 
and by casting in this way a caster with a true eye 
and steady hand can stand and whack the target in 
the center, cast after cast. 



Obstacle Fly Casting 

These events, as the name implies, are those in 
which the caster has various obstacles opposed to him 
which effectually prevent a free and natural cast. The 
idea is, of course, to simulate as far as possible some 
of the difficult and trying situations in which the 
angler often finds himself when fishing, such as cast- 
ing beneath a tree trunk leaning across a stream, un- 
der overhanging bushes, between rocks, snags, etc. It 
is intensely interesting work and requires great deli- 
cacy and precision in the handling of the rod and an 
extreme nicety of calculation. 

As in the events for accuracy the conditions govern- 
ing obstacle casting differ at various tournaments. 
Probably the three most popular forms of obstacle 
casting are for accuracy at a target fixed beneath an 
overhanging bush, for accuracy at a target fixed be- 
hind a cross-bar which is 4 feet above the water and 
for distance beneath a cross-bar fixed 30 feet from the 
caster and 6 feet above the water. For the first two 
events the best tackle is the same as described for ac- 



THE PROPER EQUIPMENT 95 

curacy fly casting and the "rolling loop" is what does 
the business par excellence. First measure the dis- 
tance as closely as possible by the preparatory casts, 
marking the distance by catching the slack line in the 
left hand as in accuracy casting. If you are allowed 
to do so by all means kneel on the platform and handle 
your rod as low as you can without making the mo- 
tion awkward. 

In all accuracy events use no more force in the cast 
than is required to fully extend the line, depending 
almost wholly upon the wrist — too much force will 
cause the line to "kick" and jerk back the fly in spite 
of the easing of the slack line. The same rule applies 
here about drawing with the eye an imaginary vertical 
line up from the center of the target and bringing the 
rod down this line on the forward cast. When cast- 
ing at the target under the 4-foot bar go easy and be 
careful not to hit the bar. (See "Obstacle Fly Cast- 
ing" — Western Rules.) In casting for distance under 
the 6-foot bar use a fairly pliable rod of about 6 ounces 
weight and from 9 to 9^ feet long. Use a moderate 
sized line with long front taper and a medium length 
leader. Kneel on the platform, if permitted, and keep 
the rod as low as possible. Extend the line to the bar, 
and when ready to cast under it, let the rod go behind on 



96 TOURNAMENT CASTING 

the back cast further than in any other style of casting — 
say at an angle of about 60 degrees from the vertical. 
When you start the forward cast, begin by pulling the 
handle of the rod forward, without starting the tip upward 
until the fore-arm is in a vertical position. Then finish 
the cast by a sharp forward drive of the rod by the 
fore-arm and wrist. In order to get a long cast 
beneath the bar the idea is, of course, to simulate as 
near as possible the low-rolling loop of the ''switch- 
cast." 

By allowing the rod to go so far back, and by the 
application of the peculiar butt motion in the forward 
cast, you are enabled to obtain a loop which will 
imitate the action of the ''switch" to a remarkable 
degre. 

It is the trickiest cast I know of and, to one who 
does not understand the cast, or who has not seen it 
done, the distances attained seem incredible. 



Selection of the equipment 

Don't go about this hurriedly and don't jump to 
the conclusion that because "so-and-so" uses this or 
that kind of rod, reel, etc., that it must be the best. 
Tournament casting is truly a case of ''many men of 
many minds" and that which may be the proper rig 
for one may be entirely unsuited to another, to say 
nothing of the different equipment necessary for and 
peculiar to the different styles of casting. I might 
add that my experience, not only as a caster, but in 
the manufacture of tournament "rigging," places me 
in a postion to advise with authority, and I will be 
glad to assist any one desirious of taking up the sport 
— in either the selection of an equipment or its proper 
use. 




Lovers of Fine Fishing Tackle are invit- 
ed to inspect our 1907 stock, wKicK lias 
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If you cannot make a personal call, send 
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( 1 Door from B'way. ) 



A Few "^^J""' Tournament 
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""* 1 ouradir i ournamcnt Fly Rods 
'"Touraclif Expert" Bait Casting Rods 
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" imperatoix ' EnglisK Soft Enamel Fly Lines 
**Royal Blue" Soft Braid Bait Casting Lines 
"Angler's Friend" Line Drying Reel 
^''Talbot" Full-JcAvelled Tournament Reeli 
Wnite Enamelled Regulation lournamcnt ""Plugs 
Imported English Deer Fat 
Fine Grapnite Line Dressing 






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EttablUhed 1820 



Colored Plates of Flies. 

Plate 1. 40 Reversed wing trout flies No. 8 hook. 
Plate 2. 42 Matched wing trout flies on No. 12 

hook and 10 famous Scotch salmon flies. 
Either plate 1 or 2 mailed for 10 cents. 
Both plates mailed for 13 cents. 
Plate I or 2 framed and packed for express — 50c. 



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18 Vesey Street 
New York 




FROST'S KELSO AUTOMATIC REEL 

Made in one size only. Automatic, for about 150 feet and 
only weighs 7^ ounces, which is about half the weight of 
any other Automatic Reel made with the same Line capacity. 
If properly handled it is impossible for the- Reel to get out 
of order. 

The spring has a friction relief at both ends 
so that it can be run down with any amount 
of force without any danger 
of breaking the spring, and 
also if a fish is hooked and 
the Line is run out more 
than the capacity of the 
spring this action will allow 
the spool to keep on revolv- 
ing, and the Line continues 
to pay out without injuring 
the spring. The spring is 
tested and guaranteed. 

It can be used as well on 
a rod with a reel seat above 
the hand, as below, and is 
particularly desirable in 
brook trout fishing where the Line has to be shortened and 
lengthened so many times in fishing around brush, etc., and 
is indispensable in fly fiishing. If an Angler once uses the 
Kelso Automatic Reel for fiy casting he never will use any 
other Reel, 

One of the great features of the Kelso is that a fish once 
hooked can never get any slack Line if the finger is kept on 
the brake controller. Of course the spring is not supposed 
to be strong enough to reel in a large fish of its own ac- 
cord; the Rod is supposed to do this by raising the tip of 
the Rod (which, brings up the Line) then letting it back 
again quickly, which gives the Reel the slack Line to take 
up, and this it will do before the fish can take it. In this way 
the fish can be brought in on the spring of the Rod, which 
gives him no chance for slack Line, or an opportunity of 
his getting too tight a Line; which gives him a chance to 
tear the hook out of his mouth. 

The fish is always working against a spring — either the 
spring of the Rod or the spring of the Reel, or both. 

Manufactured By 

H. J. FROST & CO. 
90 Chambers Street, New York City 

The "Kelso" Brand of Lines, Reels, Rods, Leaders, Flies and 
Snelled Hooks, are as good as can be made. 

CATALOGUES TO TRADE ONLY 



MEEK REELS 

"Meek" quality and '*Meek" construction created the 
standard by which all Kentucky Reels are measured. It 
is the most perfect Reel produced in the world. Reels 
made over sixty years ago are in use to-day — a source of 
comfort, pride and satisfaction to their owners. Made of 
the finest German silver, ivory handles, quadruple multi- 
plying. All of these Reels are made with the **Meek" 
spiral gear, giving smoothness of action, power and dura- 
bility otherwise unattainable. 

They are j^y^ ~^ 

guaranteed to JS^^^ff'^^''^w/m-f w^m^m^.. . 
be perfect m ml 4llMliiik iiiiimMm' m 

material, ^-^ ■■'■'mjiiiBnillfr ■ -^^ 
workmanship ■ ^T^iiliiiUlilll -ri'^Nas 

action and MMiiiftf 
durability, 
and to give 
complete 
satisfaction to 
every pur- 
chaser. 

lV>fi:3lZ?I^ T^T^l^T 42 HOLD ALL HALF-OUNCE 
IVlJt^tlSlV tKE^rZ^L^^^ BAIT-CASTINQ 

World's Championship Records 

Distance and accuracy 97 7-10 per cent 

Long distance average of 5 casts 183 49-60 ft. 

Longest Single Cast 198 s-12 ft. 

INTERNATIONAL TOURNAMENT 
Chicago, August 1905 
Won two-thirds of the Diamond Trophies, two-thirds of the first 
prizes, and eight of the other prizes, winning twelve of twenty- 
five prizes offered. Over 60 per cent of the Meek Reels used were 
prize winners. 

INTERNATIONAL TOURNAMENT 
Kalamazoo, Michigan, August, 3-4, 1906 
Won all half-ounce trophies, and three-fifths of the Bait-Casting 
Prizes given at this Tournament. 

B. F. MEEK & SONS, Inc. LOUISVILLE, KY. 

Sole Manufacturers of Genuine Meek and Blue Grass Kentucky Reels 
B«war« of Imitations Catalogue O Free 




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The Fisherman's Highway 



TLc "^tig main road'' to numbers of 
well stocked trout streams and sylvan lakes 
in tlie beautiful bills of Western New- 
York and Eastern Pennsylvania. 

Tbe *^only way' to reacb tbe upper 
"w^aters of "Tbe Regal Delaware,'* tbe 
borne of tbe small moutb black bass — "^incb 
for mcb and ounce for ounce tbe gamiest 
fisb tbat swims." In tbe tumbling "rips ' 
of tbis migbty stream will be found tbe 
best fisbing and tbe greatest sport in tbe 
Eastern States. 

Send your name and address for our 
1907 book — Fisbing on tbe Picturesque 
Erie. 



R. H. WALLACE, Gen. Passenger Agt. 
New York 



WAR 14190" 



i FAMOUS 

. SPOONS •' S'^ 



' THE \jj\j* 
JT.BUEL CO. 

WHITEHALL, N.Y. 

ORIGINAL INVENTORS 
ROLLING SPOON. ES 



MLL 

FISHING TACKLE 

DEALERS FISH 

WITH BUEL'S BAITS 

WHY? 

SOLD EVERYWHERE 

^■) ALL WIRES ARE 
^' STEEL 




Buel's Improved 
Casting Bait, 

THE DENVER 

Used extensively in Colorado and good for bass and trout in all waters. 
Has hard thin blades, made of gold, silver, copper, brass and white enamel. 




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'UL 78 

N. MANCHt 
INDIANA 46'962' 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

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